Day 9 – Trient to Argentiere

My last walking day in Switzerland .  I walk back into a France today on the final leg of this incredible adventure. I am willing the days to slow down as suddenly I can’t imagine a day not starting with the lacing up of shoes and the clipping on of my pack but mainly I can’t imagine not looking up to see these mountains framing my day.     It is the most breathtaking scenery I have ever seen .  Each and every day so far has stopped me in my tracks, my breath just taken away.   It  is surreal to find myself up in amongst these remote places with only the sound of my breathing and the click of my poles.    My legs feel stronger each day , my pack weight not as noticeable.   My confidence with descents growing as I start to trust my feet and my soles and my poles to keep me upright as I pick my way down loose rock and scree.
This day begins with one of the steepest and longest ascents of the walk . Up to the border of a Switzerland and France , Col De Balme.  At 2200m .    When I read that the Tour Du Mont Blanc walk has 10,000 mtetres of ascent which is 1 km more than climbing Everest from sea level I never really believed it to be true.   Now at day 9 and after this day I have stopped doubting .   The climb begins by heading  into shady forest for which I’m very grateful.  The sky is blue and the sun is rising quickly , this walk confuses the hell out of a packer .  I had followed packing list advice that said pack for everything. Snow , sun, rain , sunburn , hand freeze .. I’ve had each one so far.  Today was warm sun and  in sharp contrast to yesterday I was peeling off layers like an onion.   Up and up .   It was winding and rugged and between the trees the views of Trient getting smaller and smaller were stunning .
   Steve , Jay and Jeff were on the trail and at different times I had a chance to walk with each of them individually and all together.   Steve was still discussing his refuge dinner from last night well into the walk – he said it was all yellow . Every course . When I asked for more details he just said not sure- yellow.    They were much quicker than me but altered their pace for the opportunity to chat when the incline allowed more than just gasping for breath.    I felt honoured to be in their company and listen to the adventures they had had and learn their stories.   3 friends who had climbed extensively in France , the UK and throughout Europe . They were incredible walkers and nearly sprinted the descents . Jeff being the oldest was fitter than most half his age on the trail.   I watched in awe his ability to descend like a mountain goat.    They had known each other for years and they were hilarious together.   My loud gaffaw laugh kept ringing out and echoing through the quiet – I’m sure other walkers must of thought yep there she goes ..she’s  with those three!   I love to walk alone but for these I was so happy to be in their company .   We covered so many topics ranging from the serious and emotional to which was our  favourite Kylie phase and why. We finally got to the border and a refuge was balanced at the top for a welcome cuppa .   The views were all around us , the Auguilles Rouges and the feeling of the circle nearing completion as I was gazing at the same mountains I was gazing at as I began .  
The day was stunning so we set off for the high route wanting to stay up eye to eye with this view as long as possible .   Via  Auguillette des Posettes we headed .  It was one of the best days and sections of walking and we were skipping along . A toilet stop saw us walk off trail to a remote little restaurant  called Alpage de Balme . The map book says you’ve gone too far if you reach here but it was so well worth it . What a spot …  . To use  the toilet we had to purchase something so the boys tutted and said  oh if you say so , we best get a beer then.    Feeling like back pack nuts were not quite hitting the spot  I got the best goats cheese salad on toasted bread with boiled eggs  .  After a bread and jam  hut breakfast and a big climb  it was joy !  Sat in the sun outside with far reaching views all down the Chamonix valley.   They had never heard anyone discuss a salad in such glowing terms before and I was lucky they didn’t push me off the edge really.   Up and off we went clambering over a high rocky trail with views that kept making us stop and stand perfectly still.     It had to be the most spectacular view point of the entire walk from the ridge .   Wild berries grew all around and in every direction it was a marvel.    I felt blessed to be up here and so happy that I took this variant – I felt like running and telling other walkers to get up here so as not to miss it.  Finally the walk began its descent dropping sharply into fir trees and its a wooded zig zag trail down hill that had me going slow for fear of teetering off the edge .    
Finally hitting the town of Argentiere I headed to my own little room in a small hotel and had a long , untimed shower before heading out in this stunning mountain village after arranging to finish our day with dinner with my 3 climbers.  We had a drink first  and some old cheese Jay bought from a special cheese shop and said was famous despite Steve said his socks would have been tastier .   We ate it anyway and with wine it tasted less sock like .  We found a lovely spot for dinner, laughed until my stomach hurt and Jeff had tears rolling down his face .  It was a magic night with delicious food , company and as I climbed my weary legs into bed I fell asleep actually still smiling – my face had been like that the whole day I realised, like the wind had changed and there it stayed .