Day 10 – Argentiere to Lac Blanc

This was to a 9 km day for me so a shorter distance but a a very challenging one.  Described by one travel writer as “the best short hike in the world” this 9 km stretch included ridge walking with iron railings secured to cliffs and and the famous ladder section of the walk . A series of ladders attached to rock  – the longest ladder being 30 metres up a sheer rock face.   I had NEVER done anything like this before .    There was an alternative route for those with fear of heights but it meant missing the height and famous views of Mont Blanc and it was the only way to get to my highly perched hut at Lac Blanc .  I was determined to do this day my main worry – doing it with a back pack that at best guess weighed about 12 kg on my back.   I was sadly saying goodbye to many people I had met along the way as I was the only one I knew staying up at the alpine lake refuge – Lac Blanc . It was Jeff, Steve’s and Jay’s final leg  they were bypassing the lake and continuing to finish the walk today . I would see them up until just after we had climbed the largest section of ladders.  They were happy with this in a very non condescending, non doubting  but quietly protective way .   I was so touched by the care these strangers of just a few days ago showed me .  We found the point on the map we would seperate . The Sobbing Point Jeff called it .
I had eggs  – 2 . And toast and more toast with marmalade and fruit and a pear cake and another piece of pear cake  to fuel up for what I knew was going to be a remote walk with no tea stops.    Thank fully the weather was perfect – not too hot but clear skies and no rain .    The walk crosses the head of the Chamonix valley and begins its climb onto the Grand Balcon Sud . The path contouring around steep mountain walls so it looked on approach  that the people up there were climbers .   Then I realised that is where I was heading .  It was head spinning .   What a finale as the walk finishes with Mont Blanc there right in front of your face looking like a perfectly iced cake.     This is one of France’s protected areas , the Auguilles Rouges Nature Reserve.   Apparently brimming with wild life – I had yet to see anything that my book had promised me .. not one . Steve was one up from me with one sparrow. I think my eyes down don’t trip slip or fall had prevented me from spotting a whole host of animals trotting right by me .     To be honest I decided I was best off doing that than finally coming face to face with a bearded vulture as it pecked  at me lying at the bottom of a cliff .  
The first of the ladders is positioned opposite the  famous and much photographed  needle of rock called the Aiguillette d’Argentiere a famous climb and a view I knew my Dad would love.
  Jeff and Steve were off and up the first ladder section , Jay hung back with me and said he’d go up first with my camera to get pictures for my girls and my family .  I knew this was his way of staying to make sure I was ok and I found out later the three had discussed this prior and that the other two would shoot off so as not to crowd me but leave Jay  to oversee .  The quiet kindness of  good people.
I knew also how much this would mean to my lovely Mum who I knew would have this section on her mind .
So up I went . It was thrilling!!  Not  looking down I gripped on , my back pack straps pulled so tight I think I punctured several internal organs.   It was exhilarating. Jay never spoke a word just up ahead of me just stopping to snap some pictures and smiling down whenever I looked up. I got to the top , negotiated a ridge of thin rock with an iron railing and headed up the next set. High up now and still deciding not to check quite how far I  kept my eyes firmly fixed on each rung . My Elena’s gripping the iron rungs and praying my bloody extra toiletries I had been happy to lug around wouldn’t pull me back  off the ladder. I was determined not to fall because of shower gel and conditioner.    At the top of the ladders and a series of winding steep body almost flat steps on the edge I made it .  I was beaming from ear to ear my legs a little jelly and exclaiming that I have NEVER EVER done anything like that in my life !   We headed up to the very exposed and windy cairn, the sobbing point  where we said our goodbyes and I said all the words that I hoped came close to telling them how fortunate I felt having met them .    Off they flew down the hill , their pace staggering . I stood teary eyed and looked up to the next big climb up to Lac Blanc . Another 200 metre ascent . With more ladders. Lac Blanc is one of the most photographed parts of this walk – hundreds of postcards  in Chamonix with the image of Mont Blanc reflected in it’s turquoise water. I was excited . Up I went . Another set of ladders but I was up like a rocket – there was hopefully an English Breakfast tea at the top . It was silent and stunning as I continued to climb up rocks steeper and steeper .  My legs were well and truly
aching off when I finally made it .  It was stunning .   A large aqua blue lake sat amongst mountains.
In 1847 Francis Trench said of this view “the scene is perfect , and , in all probability, few who have seen it have ever had or will ever have it equalled” .   Francis was on the money.  I was so glad to have made this stop.  Although I’m fairly sure Francis might have used less hyperbole if he had booked a night in the Lac Blanc hut.  After waiting a while to the check in time and getting a bit chilly – it was high – I found out that the hut was experiencing difficulties and there would be no electricity,  no showers and no heat.    I was in need of all three.  My phone was nearly dead and I needed it to use as a torch as it was pitch black . I had no choice but to stay . It was too remote and now too late to walk to another hut .  So I just went down to the pitch black basement used my last bit of charge to light my pack and put on nearly all my clothes including my gloves for warmth .   I would sleep like this . My bunk was tiny in a room full of male hikers . Dinner was a shivery affair by candlelight and comprised watery soup and a piece of ham with a strip of polenta .  I was cold , smelly and hungry when I climbed into bed at just before 9 .  I cacooned myself in my liner and decided to wake at first light to hike out .   Not much sleep was had as I lay listening to snorers and other unfortunate noises that wrote off any chance of a deep sleep.   I lay there and thought what a range of experiences this has been ! Who would ever of thought I would be in a remote mountain hut crawling into bed in the pitch black hoping that another hiker didn’t mistake my bunk for his when he got up for a wee.   I grinned at myself .  A sudden hysterical giggle bubbling up , age  45, far from from anywhere , especially my comfort zone , on a ladder on a rock face and in a dark and cold mountain hut .     I knew my Dad would be grinning away if he’d seen me today .