Day 46 Ferrybridge to Isle Of Portland Circuit. (15 miles/ 25km)

 Day 46   Ferrybridge to Isle Of Portland Circuit.    (15 miles/ 25km)

The Island of Portland forms part of The South West Coast Path because it is a ‘tied’ island – in this case connected to the mainland by the great shingle bar of Chesil Beach.   (That shingle gets everywhere).    It is also connected by the A354 and this is what you walk down to get to the start of this section of  Coast Path.   Portland Island is a colossal wedge of pure limestone and so it follows that it is most famous for it’s quarrying history and it’s Portland Stone.  

The Island is an unusual mix of many things and it feels like it’s still deciding quite what that is.   It has disused quarries, housing estates, military compounds, a closely guarded prison, a 13th century church and an iconic lighthouse called Portland Bill.  It’s a quirky old day of walking as the South West Coast Path wraps around and on top of it all. The walk leads up to the top of the cliffs of Portland for incredible views and then around its perimeter.    I’m naming this the  quirkiest stage of the trail so far .

The trail goes immediatley up and through the old quarry first.    This stone really is very attractive stone.   So attractive it was used in the building of Buckingham Palace and St Pauls Cathedral.  It stands the test of time this stone – Portland Castle, built by Henry VIII to defend Weymouth,  is one of the best preserved castles from this era -built using Portland Stone.   The quarry is now Tout Quarry Sculptures and there are art pieces up there in this exposed, rock filled landscape as the trail passes through.   

With a walk along the cliifs and next to sheer drops the views back down the whole of Chesil Beach and yesterday’s walk are beautiful.     It then heads over the top to the direction of the Island’s main tourist attraction – the striking and impossible to miss red and white lighthouse that is Portland Bill.   It looked incredible next to the bluest of skies – it is still a working lighthouse and it also had a make your own tea machine.   Saving ships AND providing hot refreshments,  what a lighthouse.   

The trail continues as a winding path over lots of stone, past a church and a castle too old for the public to clamber over – so instead its the views to look at – and there it all is … the whole section left to walk.  I stopped for a moment to take that in.   I could see the end.  With 3 walking days left in front of me seeing it stretched out was like seeing a trailer for a movie and deciding to go.  I couldn’t believe that after all these days I was at the point where the remainder of the walk was in clear view.    

The quirks kept coming as it seemed a bit out of place for the coastal path to wrap around the  barb wired walls of HM Prison The Verne.   I went marching on by with my poles as a guard did the same around the perimeter minus the poles.    This prison holds a record it probably doesn’t want.   An inmate, John Hannan escaped by tying bed sheets together to make a rope.  This was in 1955 and if John is still with us he holds the record for being on the run longer than any other person in history.  

It was the end of the Island circuit and time to start the descent from cliff top.   It was an arrow straight path known as Mariners Incline , used originaly to get the stone down now it was just slowly getting me down.   It was a day of unusal things. 

Back to the mainland and into Weymouth where there was slightly different atmosphere from this morning.  It was the England quarter final against Norway game night.     It was a Saturday and the air was hot and heavy.   England fans were rehydrating all over the beer gardens lining the harbour.  I headed to bed knowing there would be little sleep to have and I fell asleep hearing every emotion of a football fan.  

Night night from Weymouth  xxx 

Waking up to Weymouth

Looking back at the shingle tombolo

Portland Stone

Quirky

Sheer drop – I think they put the rail the wrong side

Portland Bill

The remains of Rufus Castle

End of day Weymouth…looks peaceful -Englands yet to score