Hut rule .. everyone wakes at around 6 . It’s still dark . No one turns a light on . People move in silence with head torches on . In a a zombie like coal mining trance . Moving in silence clutching small fast drying towels and tooth brushes everyone shuffles to do ablutions and head to breakfast . The only sound is the rustle of hiking pants and the clicking of back packs . At breakfast the hut comes alive and people move fast to fuel for the day. I looked around in a panic .. no eggs , no toaster ; no fruit. Breakfast was on long tables with baskets of stale bread and jam. With no choice and knowing it was going to be a big day I dived into the stale bread with gusto and then thought a cup of tea would be enough to get me started . It got worse … No mugs or cups – just bowls . I looked around thinking I must be missing something but there was everyone drinking tea and coffee in bowls . Nope – not sure why but I couldn’t do it . I drank some water and sadly went to grab my pack and head off . Not a great first introduction to hut life but I was not disheartened as I had read this one was of the the most basic on the trail .
As I walked outside I stopped in my tracks .. the view that had been blanketed by cloud when I arrived was breathtaking . The peaks glowing in a pink haze as the sun rose . Clear, cloudless sky and I could see why this remote hut was packed with hikers . The location ,the height , the sunrise well and truly made the the deep heat , the cold shower, the tea in mugs even the bread that nearly chipped a molar worth it .
I headed off feeling thrilled by the day ahead – I was walking into Italy today and the weather was perfect allowing me to take the high variant via the Col de Fours. My trusty book says the high route in good weather was more spectacular than anything the low route could offer . 2 mountain passes . Up high for much of the day . It would also mean the chance to take a detour to the Tete Nord des Fours summit where the views of Mont Blanc were meant to be the best on the trial. I reached the Col and then, because the weather was was so perfect , left my back pack hidden between the cracks of the orange ribs of rock that formed the base of the climb to the Tete Nord des Fours at 2756 metres. Up I went following cairns to mark the way feeling like I had lost a body part leaping from rock to rock without my pack … part of me hoping someone would pinch it so I wouldn’t have to put it back on .
I got to the top and I’m all alone apart from one other couple perched near the edge taking photos . It was my first look at the towering Mont Blanc on the walk , but peaks just as spectacular all around. As I got close the girl was doing a little on the spot dance, then a leap , then a skip followed by fast clapping and more skipping . I thought wow this girl loves this view . She then asked if I would take their picture .. I said totally! Thinking well you are are gonna have to stand still first love or it’s just going to be a blur . But just as she handed over the camera she exclaimed… we just got engaged!!! Ok – this explained the leaping. Then we were all leaping , the three of us together! He had been carrying the ring in his hiking pant pocket waiting for a perfect spot and up there on this detour off the track with that view was it. I was the first person they had told and I was so excited to be part of their moment – I had their camera and was able to take beautiful pictures of them with Mont Blanc as the back drop . I had them kissing , gazing , in each other’s arms , the ring , her with ring with him , her the ring and the mountain . I headed back down after we all hugged each other goodbye and saying how honoured I felt to be part of such a special moment . Leaving them in that quiet, remote spot I had tears in my eyes. So glad I had taken that detour knowing it would be a magical moment of this walk .
Off I went , descending to the valley floor , thankful for my walking poles to save my knees and from sliding all the all the way down. The perfectly located Refuge des Mottets was my spot for a cup of tea , a piece of cake and an apple. So happy! Then began the 750 m ascent to Col de laSeigne and the border of France and Italy. The view back down the Vallee des Glaciers was stunning as the sun shone. It was a steep climb that wrapped around the mountain side . It was right in full sun the entire climb and for the first time ever I discovered you can sweat out of your eyelids. Finally reaching the top at 2516 m I stepped into Italy! The views were incredible !! Of the Val Veni, the Val Feret, the peaks of the massif and there towering above it all the crystalline summit of Mont Blanc .
Almost not real , like walking into a painting . I stayed here for a while – one foot in France , one foot in Italy because I had never before stood in two countries at the same time!
I headed down – what goes up …. !! It had been a huge day of up and now came the down . It finally evened out to the valley floor and the welcome sight of my next hut . The stunning Refuge Elisabetta . Perched on a solitary hillside under a glacier and recently renovated. It was stunning! with nothing around like it , it was packed with walkers and climbers .
My bed was on a long slab with a row of sleepers . I had the width of a pillow and I was in the middle row – a row above me and one below . 27 people and potential snorers in one room . I was just arranging my sleeping bag liner when I saw my sleeping neighbours. Two men , one slim French chap , one not so slim man fron Bristol who had heavybreather written all over him . I was bracing myself .. would Frenchie be a spooner , would Bristol be a roller ? And then a miracle happened . As I was cleaning my teeth in the communal bathroom ( after a 4 minute timed cold shower) when the lovely, just engaged girl popped up beside me to clean her teeth . We jumped in delight . As we cleaned I told her of my sleeping situation .. she said, with a mouthful of toothpaste ,
“ No! Don’t you do that – we are in a room of 6 seperate bunks , and I want to be in with
Eugenio ( fiancée) , I can’t sleep apart from him , you have my top bunk !” With a mouthful of tooth paste I said “ oh my goodness !! Are you sure!?!” And with that toothpaste still in my mouth I sprinted to the dorm , grabbed my liner and pillow and high tailed it to the bunk . She became known to me as the Angel of the Hut . I slept a lovely night sleep , nodding off with tired but happy tingling muscles wishing the couple below me every good thing for their life together and being so thankful I took that detour today . Xxxx
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In pictures…. Tour du Mont Blanc September 2019.
