It was a misty, drizzly raincoat start to the day . Pack cover on and hood up . 2 boiled eggs and toast and I was happily on my way . No soreness in my legs gave me a bright and relieved spring to my step. I had packed nuts and fruit and dairy milk for my 10 to 10 chocolate stop. It was a lovely valley walk with a gradual climb . My pack was causing me the only pain I had , across my shoulders and I knew I had to fix it . It suddenly dawned on me that when piggy backing Charlotte on long walks when she was about 5 and she lost the will to go on I would say .. lean right in Charlotte, lean in. I would go for miles with her positioned like that , moulded into me. Off came my pack and adjustments began . I pulled and tightened and adjusted then tightened some more until it finally moulded to me like a warm, weary Charlotte. What a difference. It changed everything – my neck, my shoulders and I no longer felt that on steep inclines I was about to roll back like a tortoise to the bottom . The walking was lush and misty and gorgeous.
On I went for several hours as the climb up to the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme began . It was hard climbing across rocky out crops and snow patches as it got dramatically steeper. The signs to mark the trail pettered out , replaced by thoughtfully placed cairns to mark the rest of the way . My walking poles replaced my map book and I clutched them with the same fervour as it was a rocky climb . The views were dramatic and rugged as I hit 2400 mt . It was fabulous . The cloud came in then – thick. It wasn’t until I nearly crashed into it did I see my Refuge/hut for the night. Perched in complete isolation , a timber hut with a stunning view over the mountain tops.
I found the entrance not quite knowing what to expect but I was weary and ready to take my boots off . I’d been walking from 8 till 5 so anything was a welcome sight . I left my boots with what seemed like hundreds more … where did all these people come from because I’d only seen a handful of walkers all day !? I was shown to my room – a tiny dorm with 6 bunk beds . I got a coin for the showers , I took a look at the showers . I decided to have a beer first . Showers were 4 minutes long and no hot water so thought being a little drunk was the the way to go . One lager did it after 9 hours of walking. I raced in and the cold glacial water hit — every 30 seconds turning off as if to shout TIMES NEARLY UP!! I was in a panic to get suds on me and prioritise the areas suds were needed most but then to get them off before water shut down . All my dry clothes got soaked in the process and I’m only hoping the other nationalities in adjoining showers hadn’t learnt all the English swear words . As soon as it went dark , people popped head torches on and so dinner was served in our allocated spots with candle light .. a blessing because I’m not sure what was in the soup . A great big drying rack suspended from the ceiling was a nice decorative touch with towels; underwear and socks all hanging as the main meal was served and devoured by hunger hikers . Every man for himself. I met a lovely pair from Korea , friends who work and walk together. One had fallen badly on the rocks when the cloud came in – slid 4 metres down rock. His friend repeatedly told me – my friend, he almost died today . He was still saying this as he marched off to bed . He was more shocked than the poor lad with no skin left on his legs . With head torches everyone was in bed by 9pm . I’ve not done this since I was 12 . All my fellow bunkees were fast asleep when I went up to bed so I threw myself into my sleeping bag liner fully dressed . The smell of someone’s deep heat nearly seared the inside of my nose off . It was hard to sleep – no snorers though .. I think the tiger balm had something to do with it . Breathing was tricky never mind snoring . It was a stunning day of walking and a first for me .. hut life . There are rules to it I can see – I’m yet to learn them all but will as I go but I can tell it’s wise to learn quickly . There is not enough space for rule breakers . Interested to see breakfast …
