Day 16 Perranporth to Portreath (12.5 miles / 20km)
Leaving the cosy arms of the Seiners Arms in Perranporth it was a misty moisty mornng kind of start to the day. The rain was getting heavier and I left with hood up , zip up and thats where it stayed for most of the day. It was a wet boot , wet sock walking day – I was squelching along within an hour of starting. The wet sock is not the blister free foot’s best friend. I was on high alert. Thankfully my feet ended the day as they had started just cold and an odd shade of very very pale .
I think because I got away early and because of the weather I didn’t see anyone else up there today- only toward the end were there a couple of dog walkers with dogs looking less than impressed to be out in that weather. This walk is different to others I have done where you start to see the same faces moving along the trail, crossing paths as you are all going in the same direction and making similar stops at the limited accomodation options. This walk though, because of its length, is mainly done by people in sections over time. Many people choose different distances to walk in a day and as there are so many stop options along the 1000km path you don’t fall into sync with other walkers.
The only couple I’ve seen on repeat at several of the same B and B’s in the first week were Steve and Leslie. Living in Birmingham now , Leslie originally from Scotland – they are passionate walkers and they are the only people I’ve met that are also doing the whole thing. Steve is quiely funny and Leslie is quietly hysterically funny. It was lovely seeing them at breakfast for a few of the stops and at the end of a few of the days to discuss the day in review. They then stayed at one different village futher along and it meant we are now out of sync and they are one day ahead of me. This is actually quite helpful as Leslie messages in with updates, route conditions and excellent tips – things like: ‘have carrot cake at Pit Fern Cafe ‘or ‘path is rocky to Cligga Head’ or ‘my room had a weird smell last night’. It’s really very useful. Our only crossover for the remainder of the trip is tomorrow night in St Ives where we have arranged to meet for fish and chips. They are due to finish the walk the day before I do in Poole. On a walk of transient and quick passing pleasentries this seems incredible to have made such a lovely connection.
As I was moving closer to St Ives and my first rest day I was ready to do battle with the wind that hit me hard again today. The weather seemed well timed and entirely fitting with the surrounds – bleak , cold , desolate mining landscape – it added to my appreciation and respect for miners working this in winter without the luxury that is a hot shower at the end. The cliffs towered up from ragged edges with faces that were stained red with the copper and tin that was the mineral wealth of Cornwall.
The path follows this cliff edge closely and with the wind blowing hard with nothing to break it I was going sideways more than forwards – walking poles again getting Best On Ground. I eventually dropped down into Trevaunance Cove for a hot cup of tea out of the rain for 10 minutes before heading up to the historical monolith that is Wheal Coates. The former tin mine with the iconic Towanroath Engine House built in 1872. It still stands on its sheer cliff face with mine shatfts dropping straight down beneath the sea. It is the most famous and photographed industrial ruin is Cornwall. Miners now join smugglers in having my utmost repect.
Following this it was a hood up, head down , dig deep to get wet legs up and down steep ascents and descents. One which lead right down into a valley and cove called Sally’s Bottom. Yep , thats right, not made that up. No facilities with access only on foot via a steep descent. Sounds about right.
I spotted my accomodation for the night from up high and made it down in record time at the promise of a hot shower. I happily threw myself into the arms of The Portreath Arms. From one set of Arms to another ! Had a long long hot hot shower and made my way slowly back down the stairs for the most beautiful dinner. It is a contender! Early night for me , big day tomorrow as I walk even closer to St Ives and the day of rest!
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| Leaving Perranporth |
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| Cliff edge walking |
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| The Path and the rain…. |
I can only imagine how you must have been feeling, pouring rain, wet through, squelchy feet and all those ups and downs, probably the thought of a rest day to come would push you on. It certainly was a misty, miserable looking day, hope today is sunny, bright and restful so you can recharge your batteries, ❤️❤️