Day 17 Portreath to St Ives ( 18 miles / 29km)

Day 17  Portreath to St Ives ( 18 miles / 29km) 

It was to be about an 8-9 hour day of walking to get to St Ives so I was grateful for the early breakfast at the fantastic, walker welcoming Portreath Arms.    This stop has been an accomodation highlight.   A lovely room , a wonderful restaurant downstairs and staff that make you feel like you’ve popped into their house for meal and a sleep over.   As the lady was taking my order I enquired if there was anyone in Portreath that sold back pack covers  – (another blown off in high winds)  she said no but whizzed off at speed to get me a bin liner so I could stuff contents of my pack in it to keep dry.    Small kindnesses that I won’t forget.    A quick sandwich pick up from the warmly lit and heavenly smelling Portreath bakery and off I went.   It was an all weathers in one day walk.  Gradually peeling off layers as the day moved on.    

The early starts best start is the gradual incline.    Warm up leg muscles, circulation, blood flow in a nice , respectable and controlled manner…no siree bob – the start out of Portreath has no such regard for your muscles or blood flow.   It laughs in the face of such things.   It was a quick and steep ascent that kept ascending .   I took it slow , grateful there was no one banking up behind me and heckling me on the narrow, single file trail.    

Once this climbing is done the reward is gently rolling , well maintained cliff top walking that  allows warmed legs to boost into turbo with almost a click your heels together Gene Kelly style celebration.  I think I was whistling, yes I was, I was whistling.    This section is a joyous and absolutely crazy beautiful section of Cornwall coast .   The height , the cliffs, the whole landscape is spectacular.   Photos can not do it justice – I just kept thinking of all the people’s eyes I would love to have with me to see this.   

Names along this section give some clue to the drama of the scenery,  firstly Deadmans Cove and then the highlight of the day – rounding the corner to the rugged, dramatic 300ft cliff of Hell’s Mouth.    There is no definitive explaination as to how it got it’s name but most likely it’s said to have come about in 1910 when Folliot Stokes passed by and said “Here perpendicular cliffs enclose a semi-circular cove, the walls of which are so sheer that it is a somewhat gruesome place to look down into”.    From that came Hell’s Mouth.   To be able to get so close to such scenery is incredible but I was not lingering too long near the edge as a major rock fall made news here in 2011when  200,000 tonne of rock face collapsed into the sea.   It was caught on camera.   Luckily a heads up had been given when a jogger on the coast path had spotted a crack on the 19th September and reported it , they hasitly diverted the coast path away from the cliff edge and on the 23rd it collapsed.    Bless that eagle eyed jogger – who is noticing geological shifts whilst running thats my question!?! 

In this remote place some thoughtful business owner thought people need a cup of tea after gettting up here and so there stands in the middle of nowhere the Hells Mouth Cafe .  In complete contrast with its namesake it was warm , cute  and cosy with a cake range that took some long hard thinking about.   Cup of tea and a piece of lemon drizzle cake and I was back out.  

It is then more flat and beautiful walking all around Godrevy Point where seal spotting is almost a guarantee – I was more successful this time and there they were just all lazing in the sun on the small cove beach below.  Defo seals and not rocks – I stayed put until one moved to be certain sure.  

Past the beautiful lighthouse that was inspiration for Virginia Woolf’s 1927 novel ….To The Lighthouse.  There it was – the lighthouse itself.   Her fans protested when it was suggested the light be turned off permanently .  The Woolfies won and it stays on.  

It was onto a long , twisting walk through the Dunes – a winding up and down that was like a game of find the way marker in a labyrinth of sandy trails through the grassed dune.   Then onto a road section at Hayle to skirt the Estuary before eventually about 8 hours later into the stunning sub tropical beachy feel and luxury of Carbis Bay,  the equally high end hip and happening  Porthminster Beach and finally the last kilometer of path into St Ives.   

Into the Primrose B and B – joyous at a two night stay and the eve of my first rest day!  Kettle on for a cup of Smugglers,  shower ,  special rest day hair wash and back out to meet Steve and Leslie at the Harbour Fish and Chips overlooking the boats with a window table , a wine,  fab F&C’s and mushy peas and the most lovely night in their company.    Saying goodbye – agreeing it felt we had known each other for far longer and feeling thrilled that we had found ourselves on the same adventure at the same moment in time at the breakfast table right next to each other.  What are the chances of that .     

Special things that happen in special places.    

With no alarm set it’s night night from St Ives.  xxx 

The path ahead..

High and flat cliff top walking

Hell’s Mouth…. hard to capture the height and wonder of this area

Hell’s Mouth Cafe – Perfect

Seals …I know what you’re thinking, but I swear

Just a lovely gate going To The Lighthouse.

Carbis Bay

St Ives

Leslie and Steve before we go our different ways