Day 15 Newquay to Perranporth (10.5miles / 17km )

 Day 15  Newquay to Perranporth  (10.5miles / 17km )

Today I arrived at the 2 week mark on The South West Coast Path ..this time two weeks ago I was walking out of Minehead everything clean with fresh socks and not a scratch.    It has been an incredible 2 weeks – socks less clean , a few bruises and scratches – and truly loving each day.  Even the tough ones that have challenged me in new ways have made this what it is so far.    Finding my way and following waymarkers and maps is thrilling to me.    Especially through country side that is as picturesque as it wild and remote.    This walk continues to give me something new every single day.   There are moments I have turned a corner and just stopped in my tracks.   There are moments I have looked back over where I have walked and can not believe my eyes.   It has been a memorable start.  

I left my overnight stay to rejoin the trail,  rounding the point of Towan Head and there is famous Fistral Beach.  It is a massive beach and the epicentre of British surfing.   As I walked the path looking down , it was blustery and cold but out filed surfers across the sand in formation .   They are just built different – it was fresh .   As they were marching toward the waves  I was pondering what is the collective noun for a group of surfers –    Is it a swag of surfers?  A show of surfers? …. I had to google.  It is a crew of surfers.   Good choice there I feel.   

The path behind the beach divides the beach dunes from a stunning golf course.   Back to back – surf and golf.   If you are a surfer this place is fab, if you are a golfer this place is fab, if you are a golfing surfer this is as good as it gets.   Rick Stein also has another restaurant here.    He is Mr Cornwall!      One of his chefs came out the back kitchen door of the restaurant where I had taken a wrong turn and suddenly found myself at Rick Steins ‘staff only ‘-  he was cracking a coconut.  He stood there with a coconut and I stood there with walking poles.  It was a weird little moment.    Sorry I think I’ve taken a wrong turn somewhere I quickly said.  He could somehow tell I wasn’t staff.     He graciously pointed me in the right direction and wished me well and I thanked him and also wished him well with his coconut.     

It was then on to cross the Gannel Estuary that separates Newquay from the village of Crantock.   How you cross depends entirely on the tide.   High tide is by ferry, low tide is by foot using wooden footbridges.   I made it for low tide and was able to scuttle across and up to the high grassy headland of West Pentire. 

 As I turned the corner there was a tucked away hot drinks little cafe hut .  It was time for a cup of tea.    The husband and wife owners opened the doors just as the rain came.  I was in.   He had a face etched by a lifetime of laughing and I could tell he was about to make me laugh before he’d even said a word.    He asks where I’m heading and while he makes my tea tells me what I am to expect on my way.   He said it’s got it all – fields of poppies,  then at Kelsey Head there are seals and then at Perranporth the northern end is a nudist beach full of nudists.    He had all the stories to follow as his wife tutted and kept saying dont tell her that! and I said yes tell me that !     As I finish up my tea to head off I say -hang on tell me the order again because I don’t want to take a photo of a seal and find out its actually a nudist when I zoom in.    As I’m walking away he’s shouting out the window “IT’S POPPIES , SEALS THEN THE NUDES LOVE !” .  I’m laughing my head off as I round the corner to see the first on the list.  

It was beautiful and it’s this next stage where Henry Stedman tells the walker to take their time – it’s just so impressive.   Kelsey Head with is sheltered little coves and rocks for seals to sunbake is dramtically wonderful.   Only one seal could I see bobbing about in the waves but it was gone before I was able to zoom on in .  The picture I got of it I think was actually a rock.    A chap nearby said the conditions werent the best for the seals to be on the rocks so I moved on and landscape just kept changing at every turn.   Next was the spectacular expanse of the dune-backed Holywell Bay – another Poldark filming location!  

Then in a walk of variety it was up into Penhale Point – the very definition of wild, rugged and remote and probably the reason why it’s the base of an Ministry of Defense site.    It is an Army training area and fire range – they allow the Coast Path to run around and skirt the edges but not to leave the path under any circumstances.    The warning signs come thick and fast and your not sure which one to be most concerned about.   Cameras are everywhere so I think I was under observation eating my pink lady apple on the way up.  

The trail drops from this wild area as a massive dune system opens up to frame Perranporth Beach.   The coast path takes you from Dunes to beach walking and back to dunes where kite flying parachute type things with the driver hanging from a harness riding the winds flew over the top of me whizzing around my head like seagulls around a bag of hot chips.   I kept on heading North expecting nudists at any moment but there were non to be seen.   The wind and the chill in the air had probably encouraged them to pack up their bits and head home.   Poppies,  one seal , no nudes.    Two out of three ain’t bad.   (Song of the day). 

I finish up this day walking the final stretch of beach into Perranporth, my stop for the night , via what is famously the only pub on a beach in the whole of the UK.     It seemed the perfect way to mark the 2 week point ….I happily sat outside , feet in the sand with half a pint of lager and a bag of nuts.  

Magic day.    xxx 

Fistral Beach

A crew of surfers

Low tide crossing

Poppies ……

Seal watch!

             

All the dangers – non sound great

The Ministry of Defence site….hidden

                

Just me and not a nudist in sight.

        

Winston Graham’s writing spot

                 

2 Weeks in celebration