Day 12 Port Isaac to Padstow (11.75 miles / 19km)

 Day 12   Port Isaac to Padstow  (11.75 miles  /    19km)

Mother Nature must of been knackered after yesterdays performance and in the most tender of turns this stage of the South West Coast Path with gentle gradients and a totally wind free day was like the trail giving me a leg rub.   A  well timed 19km day  meant I was able to set off knowing I would be in Padstow by about 4pm.    It was like the Tale of Two Trails – and it was glorious walking.   

Leaving Port Isaac after breakfast of two poached on toast and two nurofen I set off.    Sandwich purchased – a tuna on wholemeal …a sturdier , more robust choice just in case,  I was looking forward to this section that ended in my first ferry crossing to Padstow.    The massive, tidal Camel Estuary blocks the coastal path here so its the historic Black Tor foot ferry to take you across.    I love moving from town to town , village to village through  Cornwall – each one completely unique and not knowing what to expect next.   The scenery linking them all is a walkers dream and on this day there were lots of walkers on this section of the path.  

It started with the first 5km to Port Quin being a series of up and downs before the trial softened into a sweeping beautiful path lined with flowers and a very calm aqua blue Atlantic.   This must be a photographers dream section .   Arriving in Port Quin had me clapping my hands in joy – this tiny, unspoiled cove is tucked away with a handful of stone National Trust preserved cottages that are cottage perfection.   Port Quin was once a thriving pilchard fishing community before the entire male population was lost at sea in the 19th century.  This had me pondering about the women of Port Quin after such an event.   I worked it to be maybe 70% heart broken and staring out to sea for years waiting for a sign of their lost loves, 20% thinking well these things happen and perhaps 10% saying well that was a good job done.    

Just past the cove up high on an a cliff edge is Doyden Castle  – a tiny Gothic fortress built in 1830 by a local businessman  Samuel Symons as his personal pleasure hideaway to entertain his friends with drinking and gambling and carrying ons .   My guess is Mrs Symons might of been in the 10%. 

The trail rounds the twin volcanic headland known as The Rumps , it is wildly beautiful with flowers everywhere and a gentle breeze.  Oh the joy of the gently breeze!  

Finally walking down to Polzeath and its wide sandy beach filled with surfers and a caravan hot sauna set up.   It was a final beach walk on a wide beach with perfect hard sand toward the ferry at Rock.    I jumped off the ferry into the bustling streets of Padstow where every laneway is a cute bar, restaurant,  shop windows filled with pasties , shop windows filled with fudge and seafood restaurants including chef Rick Stein who has opened several of them here.  It was 4  o clock and it was the perfect end to this day sat in Cherry Tea Rooms with pot of tea and a piece and coffe and walnut cake.   

A lovely day ending in another lovely place.   

This picture captures today xx

Mr Symons castle for the pleasure of Mr Symons

Port Quin Cottage perfection