Day 13 Padstow to Porthcothan. (13.75 miles / 22 km )

 Day 13    Padstow to Porthcothan.     (13.75 miles  / 22 km )

This stage is the coastal walk that must make coastal loving walkers and all lovers of the coast want to sell up and move to Cornwall.    It is the section that begins the legendary Seven Bays – a string of stunning golden sand surfing beaches.    The beautiful meandering path along the cliffs stays mostly flat compared with previous stages and it hugs the cliff line so closely that the views of bays and golden beaches never leave your company all day.     To make it even lovlier the sun shone the whole day in a blue sky reflecting an ocean that  was the bluest of blues .   What makes this so unique to me is how green hills atop cliffs almost seem to roll into the water  – fields of sheep  – sheep with priceless ocean views ,  on cliff topping fields above secluded inlets of warm gold beach and aqua ocean.   The views are  breathtaking around every corner. 

I left Padstow after sitting in the sunshine overlooking the harbour to have my breakfast .   I didn’t have breakfast included here because I knew I wanted to explore and find somewhere .  Padstow was still waking up as I found my breakfast spot so it was quiet and crowd free through all the beautiful back lanes and curling streets.    The shops here are beautiful as are the bakeries , the deli’s ,  the cafes ,the tiny cocktail and wine bars ,the famous chef owned restaurants.   It is such a hub for showcasing Cornish wares – and no wonder they call it the culinary heart of Cornwall.    That is exactly how it feels.   I wanted to buy many things.  I had to walk away from buying many things at the thought of carrying those many things.    

In a shop window they were selling boxes of my new discovery since crossing over into Cornwall .  Discovered when I arrived at my first accomodation here.  In my room by the kettle were tea bags that were called CornishTea –  Smugglers Brew.  (I love this name and that the smugglers must of been mad tea drinkers).   I am a Twinings English Breakfast Tea girl but when I tried this Smugglers Brew I was turned.     It is hands down the best tea I’ve ever had.  I can not wait to get through the door and before my back pack is even off my back the kettle is on for a cup of Smugglers on arrival.   I’m converted and it’s a little piece of Cornwall I am taking with me no matter what.  

The walk takes you past many an iconic beach – firstly up on the cliffs past Stepper Point  is the 19th century stone Daymark Tower an early aid to navigating sailors into the harbour.   Not sure what anyone could see out those windows because I was on extreme tippy toes and could not see a damn thing.     It was a walk past Trevone with surfers everywhere and then Harlyn Bay – it was high on cliff tops then dropping down for beach walking before returning to the cliffs. 

It finally concludes at the sheltered inlet of Porthcothan Bay, framed by high jagged cliffs it is the filming location for Nampara Cove in Poldark!     I just wished My Kate was with me here.   We would of been leaping with Poldark fan joy.    This was true Poldark country side now.   Filming locations to be continued from this point on ..buckle in Kate , I’m all over it.  

I finish up at Porthcothan but my accomodation is slightly out of the little village in a farm stay.   It was a steep long walk to get there.   It was the final km of a stunning South West Coast Path day-  and I got in with half an hour to spare  before the farmer/chef serves dinner    ( to the humans).

View out of very high window –  not easy for me!

A cup of Smugglers!  Joy of joys!!