Day 11 Boscastle to Port Isaac ( 13.75 miles / 22km )

 Day 11     Boscastle to Port Isaac   ( 13.75 miles / 22km )

WIND.   That is how I will remember today.    Brutal , relentless wind.   It has been a day!   This walk has variety in all aspects – scenery , elevation, villages, hamlets and……weather!!!   In the space of 11 days I’ve been in a t shirt getting sunburnt regretting I didn’t throw bathers in to full wet weather gear and hood up for 9 hours.    Having breakfast in beautiful Boscastle made me think, with the benefit of hindsight ,that this would of been a well timed rest day.     Not just for lingering longer in Boscastle and having  a cornish pasty for my lunch but to rest and repair a bit after the terrain of the last few days.     When I saw the weather report I agreed with myself even more.   It was coming in fast and showing no signs of change for the whole day.   

I set off after popping into the warm Boscastle Bakery where the lovley lady made me a sliced hard boiled egg and salad sandwich .  Good to go.  I walked out of Boscastle as the rain really started past the sheltered natural  harbour and a cottage that luckily didn’t seem to be for sale or it would of delayed my start ,  and up onto a rugged section of coastline decorated with small bays, coves and headlands.    It was rainy and blustery but lovely blustery.     No one on the trail and it was magic walking …  the trail down into the breathtaking Rocky Valley was steep but so dramatic and in the rain and mist it was spectacular.   The trail led to Tintagel and Tintagel Castle.   With the 17 km behind me and 16km to go this was a perfect cup of tea stop.  

As I walked out of Tintagel the trail took me straight to the cliffs and the open very exposed cliff hugging 16km of ascents and descents that would be the trail all the way to Port Isaac.   On a clear day this section would be stunning.   But suddenly everything changed and the wind hit hard.   It had picked up in strength and built to 50mph winds.   I surged forward but it was slow going – it battered me.  This section is known for its relentless rollercoaster of steep river valleys, historic slate quarries and dramtic cliff edge walking.   All great – but not  in wind.      I just moved forward and I tried to do it as fast as I could .   

It kept pushing me over to the side , I would bounce off the grassy slope and pop back up thankful that is was my new favourite type of wind – the onshore type.   I just kept thinking it will only blow me in and not out as Ed had reassured me.     But it was rough going – I kept thinking  ‘it will blow over in a minute …’ .   It just blew.    

The timing of this weather front really did hit on the wrong stage.     The drops down on rocky slopes were steep and exposed as it takes you through Tregardock and the summit of Bounds Cliff.  My poles thank goodness were holding me but I went up and down climbs faster than I normally would to get off exposed bits and it pushed my legs and knees.  Not great, but adrenalin just propelled me .   I really wanted to get km’s done.     There was so much beauty in these surroundings but with my hood fastened tight and the noise of the wind I was just head down eyes on boots thinking I can’t even look at the beauty!!!  

 I glanced back to see if anyone else was on the trail and realised that my new pack cover , which I had secured on firmly , had gone .  I didn’t even hear it go.    I didn’t care to stop and try and see where it might have ended up.    This I could deal with but the low point came when I knew I had to eat.   I felt breakfast had well and truly been burnt off hours ago and I was past the point where your body says “there had better be a sandwich incoming”.    I kept waiting for a wind break or shelter to grab my Boscastle Sandwich.   I finally got to a mound that I could stop at – not wanting to sit but keep moving I stayed stood up and just grabbed the sandwich to quickly eat and just as I did a gush of wind flapped open my sandwich and all the filling just blew off!   Right in front of my eyes – up into the air it went – egg, lettuce, beetroot, and grated carrot.    It looked a egg and salad firework across the sky.   I just let out an almighty “FFFUUUUUUCCCCCKKKK!!!!!!!!”   

This was it now – it was Sally Vs Wind.   I was cross .   I grabbed a pack of custard cream biscuits I’d pocketed from the Riverside Inn,  pretended they were a sandwich and marched on.    I didn’t even bother looking up,  I just said right Go , one foot in front of the other and keep doing that until you get there.    I saw one other walker on this whole section , he was walking from the other direction toward me and came blowing up a climb with the wind also battering him from the side causing him to look like he’d had 15 pints.   As we got level he could only muster a non verbal “ummmppphhh” sound as a greeting , I just shouted  “yep” and that was it for pleasantries.    

It was getting on for 6 when I finally saw Port Isaac in the distance .   I was overjoyed – I pushed on , headed down past Port Gaverne and up the steep road hill into Port Issaac.    Looking and feeling like I’d been in a car wash for 4 hours I limped through the steep, narrow, and winding little streets lined with white-washed fishermens cottages.   It was like a little film set and it is!  It is where Doc Martin with Martin Clunes is filmed.     I got to my room for the night at The SlipWay Inn – top of the stairs!  and had the best shower of the whole walk so far.  Just stood in it not moving for the half an hour before my dinner was booked down stairs.   I slowly walked down them – everything was sore .  Muscle groups I didn’t even know I had.     I haven’t watched Doc Martin so couldn’t remember if he was a Doctor for humans or a large animal vet – either way I was ready for giving him a call.    

I ate a beautiful fish pie.   Quietly and with eyes closing headed back up the stairs into the lovliest bed and fell asleep before the kettle had finished boiling for final cuppa.      

Not many pics from the second half of today – didn’t want my phone to follow my egg and salad! 

Oh look there’s my house!

That stone!

Stunning but not in windy winds!

The path going over walls..love it!

Rocky Valley

The climb that started to hurt!

Port Isaac