Day 38 Dartmouth to Brixham ( 10.9 miles / 17.5km)

 Day 38    Dartmouth to Brixham   ( 10.9 miles / 17.5km)

This is a much talked about section – each person I chatted to in Dartmouth – ….here is the list ..the ladies at  the Singing Kettle, Emma the foot whisperer, the lovely people at The Browns (my Dartmouth digs) and the bar staff at The Floating Bridge (where I had my dinner) – they all said it.  This is a cracker of a walk.    Devonians are rightly proud of this section and the people of Dartmouth especially so as they are the gateway to it.  – and they all said the same , tough hills, tough section,  spectacular walking ..and a 2,600 elevation gain.    Laced up in dusty hiking boots I had the brand new red painted toes for it -confidence right there.  

After a lovely Browns breakfast I rejoined the trail out of Dartmouth and down to the slipway for the  ferry to cross the River Dart and disembark in Kingswear.   The views from the ferry are beautiful on this blue cloudless sky of a day.   Especially of the famous and hystorical Britannic Royal Naval College,  the college of Kings.  King GeorgeV and VI,  our current King Charles ,and his Dad , Prince Phillp all trained here.  Phillip was to meet his Elizabeth while a student here.     

The up was immediate and straight into dense woodlands.    Like nature’s reformer the incline stretched every ache out of my calves and I warmed up quickly.     The woods that start this day have to be some of the lovliest on the whole path.  Warren Woods.  It dips and climbs with views back over Dartmouth Castle and bay.   It looked like a moving painting.   

Passing the Brownstone Battery an extensive WWII coastal defence position, still with gun batteries, store huts and observation posts to walk by.    All just there partially obscured by long grass it is so  quiet – edge of cliff walking cutting a path through history.    On to the high point that looks down on the dramatic Pudcombe Cove.   Massive cliffs sheltering a spectacular private cove that once had steps running down to it before erosion took them and a Victorian Tidal Pool built by the family that made it their own private beach.  

This day just unfolded around every corner to live up to it’s reputation.  It was truly magical – and with no one for miles I felt like I had it all to myself .    It was warming up on the exposed path and with a cloudless sky the water responded and reflected a blue that met up with it seamlessly on the horizon.    The track, covered in wildflowers ,  began the descent down to the quiet shingle of  Scabbacombe Sands beach.  It was a big and steep down that had a steep climb back out – so before I headed up it was time for an apple and biscuit.     I found a flat spot to sit and just as I was starting my apple out the corner of my eye I see a naked man strolling across the shingles and diving right on in.   I get out my trusted Henry Stedman to read where I am only to find I decided to stop for my snack break on the beach open to nudists.  On a 18km stretch of coast this was where I happened to stop for an apple and a ginger nut.    

I do always feel a bit odd amongst beach goers walking over the beach stretches in boots , hiking gear, back pack and poles – like getting the theme wrong at a fancy dress party.  At Scabbacombe Sands I had definitley not nailed the brief.   Still – I decided on one more ginger nut for good measure and headed off.    The climb out was a long and steep, the kind where you lean in and don’t stand or you’ll roll down backwards kind of steep.   It’s a committed nude that is down and upping this trail to reach this quiet little spot.  

As the dark rocks below start to give way to bright white limestone it’s a sign that the promontory of Berry Head and the final walk into Brixham  is close.     The only tea spot on the whole path appears here , remotely positioned and a little skip inducing welcome sight.   The feeling of seeing that that cup of tea spot after this kind of hiking is just so simple in its lovliness – it’s simply lovely.      Walking in and seeing a selection of cakes to choose from , joy!  Making the decision which one – a decision that really takes some deep thinking and even the seeking of several opinions before the choice is settled on. Joy!  Having a smiling face say “find a table and I’ll bring it out to you love “.   Joy! The cake and the tea in the fresh air with back pack off and looking back over the view you’ve walked in. Joy! 

Walking in to Brixham.  Around the harbour to find my Bed and Breakfast for the night.   A shower and an explore before deciding on a table in the window at The Blue Anchor Inn.  

This is a day to be proud of Devon.   It was magnificent.    Night night from Brixham xxx 

This was the feel of this wonderful walking

Departing Dartmouth on the ferry

Britannic Royal Naval College

Views over to Dartmouth Castle

Climbing into Warren Woods

The water !

Walking amongst WWII defences

Still in unbelievable condition

Every turn

Woods and water .  Dream!

Scabbacombe Sands – don’t zoom in or zoom in, up to you

The climb down to my snack stop

Blue meets blue – not a cloud all day

Yep.

Brixham