Day 37 Torcross to Dartmouth (10 miles / 16.6km)

 Day 37   Torcross to Dartmouth (10 miles / 16.6km)  

For a short day there is a lot to include.   A shorter distance but full of moments that will stay with me.     This was to be a day that should take about 5 hours and was rated ‘Moderate’.   There are only about 5 days on the whole walk rated Moderate so when they have come up I have taken the chance to get washing done, pay bills from home , do admin …  Today I would be walking into Dartmouth around 2ish.   I would have afternoon time.  Dartmouth is a good size town with amenities.    I thought about laundry but not for long, instead I put body first and settled on feet.  Top prioirty – toes under pressure.     I still had 11 walking days to go – these feet  had to last me .  I researched pedicures in Dartmouth and found one that thankfully had a spot and took the last booking of the day at 4 o clock.   I could not wait!  I’d have time for a sandwich and a cuppa first .  The plan was made.  

Leaving Torcross early had me tarmac walking a unique long stretch of dead straight road with water on either side of me – the incredibly historically significant two mile shingle beach that is Slapton Sands on one side and Slapton Ley , the largest freshwaster lake in the South West lies to the other.  The road cuts a path right down the centre.   This area played a part of major historical importance that is extraordinary to learn about as the path takes you through Torcross.      

 In the Second World War this whole area was converted into the practice grounds for 30,000 US troops prior to the D-Day Normandy landing.    Given the name ‘Exercise Tiger’  the 2 mile beach of Slapton was chosen for it’s similarity to Utah Beach in Normandy -a gravel beach followed by a ribbon of land and a lake.   Exactly what Torcross is.    To house this influx of troops the residents of Torcross and Slapton where forced to evacuate,  leaving homes when some had never even left their village before.   

While the landings were successful the rehearsal here was not.    It was a tragedy on a huge scale.  A convoy of 8 allied ships heading to Slapton were attacked by nine German E-boats, resulting in the loss of of 638 servicemen.  For the ones that did reach Slapton a furher 308 were killed during rehearsal as the directive from above came that live ammunition be used in practice to ‘harden the troops.’    Those who witnessed these tragic events in April 1943 were sworn to secrecy and the incident was covered up by authorities.  

That was until a local resident called Ken Small did some digging , literally.   In the 1970’s he was walking and beach combing this stretch and began finding evidence of Exercise Tiger.   He made it his mission to uncover what had happened here.    He did just that.   As part of his exhaustive efforts a Sherman DD tank was bought by Ken and raised from the sea bed in 1984.  Determined to pay tribute to an event shrouded in secrecy and covered up Ken used the tank to stand as an incredible memorial.     There stands a unique and memorable sight in this small seaside village as you walk the trail towards it.  It is a testament to one man’s respectful determination, a reminder of what Torcross and Slapton did at this time and the stark truth of the number of men who died to make a history changing day in the war happen.  

After such a thought provoking start I decided to stop on this beach – there was a tea and coffee van selling hot drinks at the end of the beach before the trail leaves it.   It was such a quiet and peaceful spot with a few tables set up on the shingle.   I sat with a cup of tea and piece of carrot cake in the morning stillness on this beach that once saw the very opposite.  

The walk from here is a beautiful walk of country lanes and Devon villages.   It is just a very pretty, picturesque English walking feast.    Fields, woods, coast  and repeat.   Gently undulating with a few steep moments to balance it out –  one sheer,  smoothly grassed descent that nearly had me just chuck my pack first and roll down.    The sun made the water glisten at Blackpool Sands and on it went seamlessly entering the National Trust owned Little Dartmouth which was a return to cliff tops –  heavenly walking past coves, beaches and views of endless turquoise that coloured the Dart Estuary.    With a final woodland filled with flowers and my first squirrel of the walk, the path leads to Dartmouth Castle.  Like a fairy tale castle perched on the cliff guarding the entrance to the Dart it was a welcome that reflected the stunning streets of medieval Dartmouth.  This place is old, this place has stories – you can feel it. 

 I walked through the gorgeous streets until I spotted a tiny cafe in an old tudor building with low ceilings and beams and leaning almost over ….it was impossible to walk past , so I didn’t.   It was called The Singing Kettle – decision made.   I walked straight in – even I had to duck my head which is saying alot.   My sandwich and pot of tea (that came with a little hourglass timer , not to be poured until timer has finished) was a perfect very English end to this very English South West Coast Path stage. 

With a quick change out of hot socks and hot boots I headed for my pedicure hour.   I was the only one in there being the last one for the day and the owner Emma who had been working in this industry her whole life was just the woman for the job.   The warm, hysterically funny and full of excellent stories Emma took this task very seriously.  She took such care and time all the while giving me the best local goss, stories and intrigue.   I was in no rush to leave and there was no way she was rushing these toes . I was in there 2 hours.    She looked at my little toe with concern and an educated eye and I said “Emma, I think I’m going to loose that toenail”.   She examined it, held my foot aloft and in a voice that reminded me of Russell Crowe’s Gladiator speech in the colosseum she said ” Yes. ….You will my love.  But NOT today”.  I have a feeling no one loses a nail on Emma’s watch.     

When she was finally happy with her work and my feet no longer resembled the ones that walked in the door she said lets give them some colour.   She grabbed the brighest red and said “boots for day , sexy for night”.   I said “Get it on!” Once all done she went and got a skin misting spray and misted my arms and rubbed it in and said it’s what all her ladies take when they are going away –  it would make me glow and smell like I’ve been on a holiday.  I said “Get it on!”.  She gave me the biggest, warmest hug as I was leaving and I walked out of there floating on a cloud, toes -sexy for night and smelling like a week in Spain.  

A special day in every way.     Night night from Dartmouth xxx

Lovely England was the walking today

Leaving on an early morning in Torcross

Mr Ken Small

The road in the middle – leaving Torcross

The contemplative stillness of Slapton Sands

Walking into the sea

Pretty all day today

Sod it – I’m rolling .

Blackpool Sands

Pretty much everything you need in one picture.

A really lovely thatched window

Stoke Fleming

Poles just getting a rest

Little Dartmouth

Dartmouth Castle

Dartmouth

The Singing Kettle tea and timer

Walking home from dinner – Dartmouth