This next stage of the walk, crossing The Vale of Mowbray, on route from the Pennines to the North York Moors seems to divide the opionions of walkers more than any other section so far. Because it is mainly flat , farmland and unavoidably involves a lot of road walking it can seem endless at some points . A lot of walkers for this reason want to get it over and done with and so cover it all in a massive 23 mile day. But then the next days walk is 22 miles , ! Back to back …aahh!! That was enough to convince me to break up the first section – putting in a stop at Danby Wiske. Judging by the number of walkers at the bar of The White Swan in Danby Wiske a lot do the same.
I left Richmond , after smothering myself in Boots’ SPF 50 Plus. Lucy, at Castle House, has running a B&B down to a fine art. Her attention to detail was incredible. When I got back from dinner there was a little bag of chocolates hanging on my door with a note saying.. Goodnight…x When she handed me my brown paper bag containing my packed lunch I knew I’d be in for a treat. I found the route out of Richmond over the Richmond Bridge and with final stunning views up to the castle. Through woods towards the tiny , pretty village of Colburn and then out toward Catterick Bridge . I was walking by myself again today , walkers I had met last night in Richmond all starting at different times . This was lovely as it was 14 miles and I wanted to have the freedom to stop when I wanted .
I got to Bolton on Swale where in a beautiful churchyard , it was getting hot, I found shade and opened my lunch from Lucy. Oh … I had to take a photo! Two rolls with thick Ham off the bone, crispy lettuce with lashings of Yorkshire chutney ( my love affair with this chutney has got serious) , fruit, crisps, an apple pie and mr Kiplings cake . I had myself a lovely picnic – it seems to taste nicer in the fresh air . Then it was the start of a long , flat walk . Through lots of farms , lots of crops – waist high for normal people , up to my ears. And then onto a long , but very quiet road walk to Streetlam.
I never saw another car , just a couple of tractors for the whole distance. The Cleveland Hills
seem miles away and really the only views from this point on are the road in front and the hedgerows either side. Some walkers found this dull. I didn’t. I had gone nearly a day without a drystone wall and this did leave a void but it was really lovely just walking … It’s the first time a solo walker can relax a bit on the navigation front ! And it was so peaceful. The only sound was the swooshing of my light weight, quick drying, moisture wicking walking pants and the birds. So many birds! After my crow/eagle mishap I will not attempt to name them until I have returned home and consulted my Dad’s 4000 page Great British Birds book . Suffice it to say, they sounded beautiful on an English summer walk in the countryside , so no complaints from me.
After a detour through a final few muddy fields, and a few outstanding saves over broken stiles I returned onto the road that walked straight into the White Swan at Danby Wiske! I never missed a step before the words “one pint and a bag of nuts please ” were out of my mouth – back pack still on! It was so hot and it was heaven to have a cold beer. As I got my room key from the land lady , she
handed me a lovely card, it was from John and Roger! They had stayed there a few nights prior . I was so delighted to hear from them.
I couldn’t wait for my shower. Unfortunately, I got in yet another shower pickle. I got in the shower ( again a dial – no taps) and pressed every button , turned every dial and nothing happened. (“I’m getting nothing ! ” as my Dad would say ). So my search began, I patted the whole shower cubicle down like a customs officer trying to find a lever, a switch anything … After a good 10 minutes I had no choice but to repeat my Partterdale experience and head down to the bar to shout the land lady. I couldn’t face my muddy sweaty clothes in a pile so popped on pyjamas and headed down . I “Yoo hoo” ed round the corner but only got the attention of a lone walker . A very helpful chap having a pint who went off to find someone for me. Eventually , land lord located , me stood in bar in pyjamas , he asks me ” did you pull the Isolator cord .”..(?!?!?!) I said ” A cord? I didn’t see a cord in the shower” he said ” Oh no, it’s not in the shower” at this point the helpful chap with the pint starts to giggle and spit beer out . I say , very calmly for a woman in silk floral pyjamas in the middle of a
bar, ” Where is the isolator cord located?” He says ” Over the toilet”. The nice chap with the pint starts slapping his knee and rocking around in his chair. “Excellent ” I say . So up I go , pull cord over toilet ( how I missed I’ll never know!) and the shower bursts into life. Excellent water pressure at Danby Wiske moved them up in the shower ratings, hide and seek controls have unfortunately made the chances for a place in the finals slim.
Down for dinner with nice chap with the pint, called Roger ( another!) and a very friendly camper from Belgium, called Gurt . No Wi-Fi , or “Wiffy ” (sounding like Jiffy) as Gurt charmingly called it. So no blog. Double blogging tonight! . All quiet in a Danby Wiske at 9pm – lights out . Great , great day xxx
Another great blog from the Perth Bard!!!
Have you thought about taking a bath instead of a shower?