Day 13 – Danby Wiske to Osmotherley

( Read day 12 first, so this makes sense .  Sorry , no Wi-Fi at Danby Wiske) xxxxx

I was really looking forward to a few things on the 11 mile walk today .  Firstly, my destination.
Osmotherley was described in my guide book as a village not to be missed , and the land lady,  Gill, at Danby Wiske wholeheartedly agreed.  She told me of the excellent icecream shop – local icecream all flavours laid out before you!   Although after speaking to my very wise daughter this morning who said ” ….but Mum , it might be closed” I vowed not to get my hopes up as CLOSED signs in small villages had become a bit of a recurring pattern.  Gill also said the pub where I was staying was all candle lit and atmospheric !  I couldn’t wait .  I was also looking forward to having the time to detour off route to Mount Grace Priory, built in 1398.   With my packed lunch in hand I started off . ( I have a feeling I won’t need to take a photo of today’s packed lunch )

It was warm again , cloudy but humid , very still and the first 3 hours of walking through flat farmland seemed to take longer than the time it took .  I marched on , watching The Cleveland Hills getting closer and closer .   I can’t believe that after this stretch I was actually looking forward to walking up a hill.   But before I could reach the hills I needed to cross over the A19 .  It would be impossible to walk across a country and not have to cross over the traffic arteries that connect it.  Up until now they have had a handy footbridge .  Not this time .  Stedman says at this point , ‘wait for a break in the traffic and make a mad dash.’  I firstly stopped at Motorway services for a cold drink and a curly wurly.  Right , Run , Sally Run… . Harder than I thought with a back pack and mud encrusted
boots – I was hardly aero dynamic.     I made it to the median strip and then doing a run that I’m glad
no one had to watch I got all the way across.

I was then heading up hill … Yippee, !! And up to Ingleby Cross where I saw Roger, who was nipping into the Bluebell Inn for WI-FI – likely story . I needed a curly wurly for the A19 , Roger needed a
shandy!    Up I went , happily stretching my legs climbing up into Arncliffe Woods.  I was keeping my eyes peeled for the turn off that led to Mount Grace Priory . I missed the turn off for Mount Grace
Priory.  I kept walking up a relentlessly steep hill through the woods until I got to the southern most
point of the woods , where the Cleveland Way meets The Coast to Coast and where I was to turn off the route to drop down to Osmotherley .   I sat down in some high grass to have my packed lunch and I realised that I had missed the Priory- and that there was no chutney on my sandwich , there wasn’t actually very much on my sandwich .   But I also realised that after that big up hill and from where I was sat I could see all the way across The Vale of Mowbray and beyond.  The whole of 2 , maybe 3
days of walking laid out before me.

I sat for quite a while resting my feet, it was very quiet and my sandwich , slightly on the dry side , took a lot of digesting.  Roger then came up the hill.   It is hard to describe here but Roger has the loveliest speaking voice – behind my friend Ruth , he has the loveliest speaking voice .  He is very softly spoken but his voice is filled with expression.   Roger had a very interesting story, as did most
of the people I had met along the way and who had shared their stories with me, I felt honoured that they had.  Everyone has a story , something in their lives that seems to be a defining moment or a
catalyst or an inspiration to move in a new direction.  I had heard some incredible stories so far on this walk , Roger was one of them.  He had a wife and three wonderful teenage daughters at home but this walk was something of a personal pilgramage for him .    He was hysterically funny  and so witty – as soon as he came up the hill we started laughing – his observations on the mornings walk cracking me up.

As he was heading off – not staying in Osmotherley,  he turned and said the most lovely words to me.  He spoke softly about perseverance , of being a role model for daughters, of courage and finding adventure.  Then he said goodbye and after he rounded the corner I stayed sitting still .  I realised I had tears streaming down my face  , I couldn’t stop crying .  I didn’t know if it was the incredibly genuine and very considered words he had said to me( in his lovely voice) or if it was the mention of my daughters or if it was the view showing how far I had walked laid out before me or if it was the
realisation of what this walk had come to mean to me after so long of dreaming of it or if it was just missing chutney on my sandwich . I think perhaps it was all these things.  But in that very quiet place at the edge of Arncliffe woods I felt joy , just absolute joy.

I then got out my big map and found an alternative route through the woods to Mount Grace Priory. It was so well worth it.   The walk down through woodland was beautiful and the Priory was fascinating !  What a beautiful place .. I will tell you all about it when I get home girls …. I bought the guidebook!!!!

I climbed back up through Mt Grace Woods and joined the path again to Osmotherley , it was past 4 by now and my hopes for an icecream were dashed .   But wait … It was OPEN !!! Mint choc chip in a cone !!  Just what my hot self needed , what a day . I sat on a bench , in the village green with my icecream grinning away.   This village is lovely , Gill was right .  My room at The Golden Lion
(shower has taken number 1 spot!! TAPS !!! ). is beautiful and I’m sat writing this at dinner which has been delicious .   A happy hiker .  I’m off to bed , North York Moors tomorrow, the final third of my walk . Good night , sweet dreams, all my love xxx