Day 10 – Keld to Reeth

Thanks to a 3am craving for cheese and onion crisps I knew I was on the mend.  I woke up feeling much better and so relieved.   I went down for the Keld Lodge breakfast but decided not to get ahead of myself so only ordered toast.   Very odd in these parts.  The very attentive young waiter hovered at my table looking worried.  He was on last night when I took half an hour to eat a bowl of soup , while every other walker was wanging in the Pie of the Day with fervour.
 He finally asked “Sally, is everything alright?”  I realised that he might be thinking I was unhappy with the menu/food.  I hurriedly started to explain my tummy, the bug, the sleepiness, the nausea and how I felt like someone was giving my whole body a Chinese burn.   Well , then this lovely young lad ran through and offered me the entire contents of the Keld Lodge medicine cabinet.    Just as I thought he was finished he paused and his face lit up and said ” what about a Lemsip!”   I was so touched , again , the kindness of people throughout this trip has been astonishing.
So, after my toast and not suffering any consequences from having it, I set off on this 11and a 1/2 mile day.   It was the day I had been very much looking forward to.   The walk to Reeth along the River Swale winding through the Swaledale Valley.  Gerry, now a day  ahead of me , had messaged to say it was his favourite day of the whole coast to coast so far.   But he is Yorkshire born so might be biased .   The sun shone , it was beautiful.   I was walking very happily solo today, the River Swale was my walking partner for the day !  

  I headed out of Keld and up to  Kidston Falls and to take a look at the ruins of Crackpot Hall.  This was a 17th century hall built for Lord Whartons deer keeper and then passed into the hands of prosperous farmers.    From its elevated position the views down the valley of Kidston Gorge were beautiful.   I love looking at these ruins, there were several more along the route today, tiny houses that held families with 6 children or more.    So the path followed the River Swale for a while , passing through some little hamlets and gorgeous bridges.  I’ve gone nuts with photos today, every corner turned warranted another .  Then through meadows filled with buttercups to the little village of Gunnerside.

The Tour De France is coming through Yorkshire in the first week of July and Gunnerside is a village it passes through.  The bunting is already up and yellow bikes welcoming the tour were everywhere, already it’s a carnival atmosphere!   Unfortunately , the tea shop I was so looking forward to having a sandwich in was closed!    I think they were having a week in Tenerife before the crowds descend next month.   So I headed on , hoping the next village might do me a buttie.  

I headed on up to open moor, with views of glorious England all around me.  It was such a beautiful day to be walking, I used my Stedman book and it was excellent for navigation the whole way directing me over stile and through meadow .    I went down to Healaugh, another tiny , beautiful village hosting the Tour ( not a sandwich to be had ..getting peckish now).   The route then drops me down for the most glorious walk down to the Rivers edge again.    I found a little spot to phone home along the banks xxx. Then finished my walk into Reeth through narrow , flower filled lanes.   Reeth is beautiful!  An English village from books and postcards set around a village green.   It has tea rooms, and pubs and an ice cream palour !

It was nearly 4 but I could only think of the sandwich I’d been thinking of since 12.  I headed for a tea room and perhaps enjoyed the sandwich I ordered (tuna on brown served with crisps , Yorkshire chutney and coleslaw) more than anything I can remember for a long time.     I’m back!  Right, what’s the Pie  of the Day ??     I checked into The  Manse , a really lovely room – second best shower so far and a welcome of tea and cake.   A marvellous, marvellous day.  ( I’m running out of hyperbole and I’ve got 6 days to go!) xxx