Day 39 Brixham to Babbacombe. (11 miles / 18 km)

 Day 39   Brixham to Babbacombe.   (11 miles / 18 km)

After yesterdays walking the variety just keeps on coming – it’s such a change and  the next couple of days take on a very different feel as it’s off the cliffs and down to the seaside for much of the trail.   It’s a few days where I see more people in one day than I’ve seen in the past 39.   Not many of them in the same outfit as me.    It’s beach huts,  colourful beach windbreakers, icecream and buckets and spades…. it’s hiking promenade style.    

Brixham marks the start of the area known as the ‘English Riviera’.   This is the Victorian nickname given to the Torbay area of South Devon and given to capture the area’s many beaches and mild climate.    People have been taking their holidays here when swimming costumes where knitted and down to the knee.   Things have changed slightly in that department but it’s the same carnival atmosphere.   This Torbay area encompasses three main towns – Brixham sits at the start of it, followed by Paignton and Torquay.  Brixham being the smallest of the three.   They get progressively bigger and busier.  

Leaving Ranscombe House Bed and Breakfast after a very comfortable Bed and lovely Breakfast the walk starts off with woods and a short cliff spell past the very still and sheltered beauty of Elberry Cove.    It drops you out at Broad Sands it’s beach front lines of multi coloured beach huts.   The walk for much of the time now is framed by beach huts one side and beach goers tanning away on the other.    With a hiker popping on through the middle.  

The beach huts are fascinating.  They are about the size of a good garden shed but the set ups and use of space of some are exceptional.   I was trying not to look like I was peering in but I was peering in.  I was loving the styling that was going on – imagining how I would have mine set up.  By the end of the first row I had decided on my exterior colour, floor covering and storage container system.   I was impressed with ones that had cleverly maximised space with whole shelfing sytems, coffee machines, lounger chairs and shelves filled with beach side reading novels.  I saw alot of Emily Henry and Celia Ahern in there.   Crosswords and sudoko also popular beach hut choices.     The sun was well and truly out so as I walked on by more beach hut doors were thrown open , recliner chairs were out and the cafes to service them all full to the brim.  

It was this kind of walking through to Paignton and it’s pier ,   a new town and getting slightly bigger as I go .  Again being the only one not in swimwear I decided if I had an icecream in my hand I would look lesss conspicuous.   Raspberry ripple in hand and on to Torquay I hiked.    Quite enjoying doing other things with my hands instead of holding walking poles. Torquay is the largest at the end of the three and on this summers day it was full to the brim .  The population of Torquay swells from 65,000 to near 200,000 at the height of summer.   I walked fairly quickly through, after so many days of complete remoteness, I was looking forward to heading in that general direction again.  

Torquay’s most famous Torquayian (not sure if that’s a word) is Agatha Christie who was born here in 1890, honeymooned here in 1914 and worked as a nurse here in the local hospital during the First World War.   Much of her inspiration being the rugged moors, cliffs, beaches, villages and islands of South Devon.  Fans flock to Torquay for Agatha events and to walk the Agatha Christie Literary Trail.      She is a drawcard for sure I have just learnt as I walked on through that her novels have sold a staggering 4 billion copies putting her in joint first with William Shakespeare on the world’s all time best selling list!  Unbelievable – I guess she is on the shelves of beach huts here for sure.   

My day of promenading ends as I walk up and out of the busy town towards the headland that is Hope’s Nose, into shaded woods past Ansteys Cove and into Babbacombe Downs.    My stay at the Buccanneeeeerrrrrr Inn  – (I have to say it like a pirate , it just comes out that way everytime – beyond my control) was ideal.   The lady that greeted me in the bar was so helpful and although it’s not breakfast included the room had a little mini kitchen so I could nip to the shop and get my own breakfast supplies for an early start in the morning.   I am carrying my own marmalade along with me for these moments.   

Night night as the sun goes down over the red cliffs of Babbacombe Beach.  xxx

Elberry Cove first thing

The huts

The Dartmouth Steam Railway

London Bridge

Hope’s Nose

Breakfast at the Bucccannneeerrrrrr