Day 26 Falmouth to Portloe (13.75 miles / 22km )

 Day 26  Falmouth to Portloe (13.75 miles / 22km )

This day, like yesterday, was glorious sunshine from start to finish.   It was also the summer solstice and the two things combined made for a very special walking day.   I, like the sun, was in no rush for this day to end .  It was stunning.  

For the first time on this walk the day unfortunately  featured my feet more than I would of liked.   It was too beautiful a day for my feet to feature.    But you can’t plan these things.    After wet sock day and because my feet were taking a pounding from back to back days I had been taping my toes and feet each morning as a precautionary measure.      I had run out of supplies – not every stop has a shop or certainly not a chemist.  I was `planning on the restock in the big town of Falmouth.  By the time I arrived last night Boots and chemists were all shut.  This was a problem .   Timing was working against me as the next day was Sunday and shops not opening until 10.30.   My first of two ferry crossings was leaving Falmouth at 9.15 and ,because it was a Sunday, only went every hour.   I couldn’t afford to wait for the chemist as that would of meant only being able to get the 11.15 ferry.   It was ferry Vs feet.   I had to go with ferry.    I had no choice but to make do with normal plasters instead of compeed and fixomull…I knew this would be like using cling film as a condom .  I was giving them 5 minutes at best.    It ended badly. 

The gorgeous ferry – a much bigger vessel than the previous two, left Falmouth for the crossing to stunning St Mawes which sits right on the water with jetties leading out and bustling with boating action.    It was straight off the first and onto a much smaller one for the crossing of the Percuil River to disembark in the tiny hamlet of Place.  This is where the coastal path starts for the day.    It was a spectacular start on the water , glistening away and full of boats and boating folk on this Cornwall Sunday.      

The trail follows a sheltered creek towards St Anthony Head and at the base of the cliffs St Anthony’s Lighthouse – an 1935 lighthouse where the childrens show Fraggle Rock was filmed (“Down to Fraggle Rock…clap clap!! – I hope you are doing it now Em).   Then, heading north, the trail enters the Roseland Peninsula – the beautiful path through here winds along grassed top cliffs, so green – the green that I call English Green – rolling down to the edge- I’m walking and ahead of me are fields of green with cattle and sheer drops into pristine, vivid turquoise coves.   It was cows meets coast,  it  was so beautifully English.  I was skipping along…sort of.  

It was getting hotter.   I was so tempted to peel off hot boots and run in … I probably should of .  My feet at about 12 km were starting to swell and the plasters were definitely no longer attached.   My little toe started to burn.   I stopped to check Henry’s bible –  he confirmed my fear, no shops in Portloe my end point for this day.   The next and only village in between , Portscatho,was where I was planning to stop for a cup of tea.   Henry said it had a shop!  Ralph’s Stores.   I reached this gorgeous , white washed village which had people all sat outside in stunning pub gardens and restaurants having drinks and Sunday long lunches in the sun – I bypassed them all in a dash for Ralph’s .  Please Ralph please have a medical/foot care section…  Oh my good Lord and he did!!!   Ralph was all over foot care in Portscatho!!!   I grabbed 2 packs of compeeds and adhesive strapping tape – gushed to the young girl who took payment what an excellent store it was and headed for the tea shop.   I got a quiet table out the front where I could adminster foot care .  

I once watched Mary Berry make a beef wellington and it was in the same manner  that I wrapped and tended to my now madly aching little toe… while I also managed to have a truly excellent piece of coffee cake and a pot of Smugglers Brew.     Feeling hopeful off  I went.   After the rolling hills and blue water it began the start of a series of gruelling steep ascents and descents of the towering Nare Head.   At over 300 feet high this is an incredible stage and so ruggedly beautiful – the higher you go the more of the coast and all of where I had  walked in previous days reaching into the distance.   It was hot , scrambly climbing and I loved it.  My toe did not.   I rounded each corner as it kept winding around and finally through wooded ravines into the narrow fishing village of Portloe at 6.45.   Perfectly timed longest summers day!  

The Luggers Hotel once a 17th century smugglers inn sits practically waters edge right on the harbour – the path walks you straight through the front door.   I hobbled into reception to the lady behind the desk and said “Hello I’m Sally Cherry and I have a bad blister”-  I sounded like someone introducing themselves to the group at a Blisters Anonymous meeting.   The kind faced lady with the gentlest, most hypnotic voice I’ve ever possibly heard just softly said “follow me, lets get you up to your room and settle you in ” .  I just said “ok ” .   Up we went the narrow winding stairs .  In a gesture that was as slight as it was discreet she averted her eyes while I crab crawled up behind her.  In the lovely room she said softly “Here you have some baked cookies and fresh milk in the fridge for a cup of tea”.   I said “ok”.  She said “you have a nice shower and I’ll see you down for dinner , should we say 8?”  I said “ok”.  I may or may not have been holding her hand as I said “thank you very much”.   

A long shower that felt as good as any I can remember – and down I went .  At a table for one right outside overlooking the water and with a summers night that still had plenty of light left in it I had the most beautiful dinner.    I didn’t want the night to end – summers solstice in this place felt like a dream to me.   So when the waitress came over after my meal to see how I was going I said “Could I please get the cheeseboard?”   And I did.  Smiling my head off with Cornish cheeses  and to have made this day and to end it so magically.  

Night night from Portloe xxx 

On the water from Falmouth

Ferry number 1

This made me miss my girls

Ferry number 2

Stunning walking

The cows and the coast

The cake

Looking back on where I’ve walked….takes my breath away

Nare Head

Luggers Hotel

My table… as the fishermen come in

There’s the fisherman

My special Summer Solstice in Portloe xx