Day 29 Par to Polperro. (13 miles / 21km )

 Day 29    Par to Polperro.    (13 miles / 21km )

HOT.   That is how this day started and this is how it  ended.   I will remember this day for many things but mainly as the heatwave day – for the full force of it  hitting the South West Coast Path and a sweaty blonde woman up on the cliffs!   

  It was ideal having my own little kitchen as I was able to get up early, make my eggs on toast , have bags packed up , suncream double layered and out the door .   Susie’s Air B and B stop was ideal timing for both it’s on the path location and the ability to get an early start.    I knew the last 12 km of this stage today was the challenge of the day.  I really wanted to hit it as early as I could …I also knew I was one day away from a rest day and this was a motivator to get to Polperro to begin the resting.  

A haze just lay over Par like a weighted blanket, trapping in the warmth and keeping out the breeze.    It started gently climbing and it was lovely walking entering the heavily wooded cliffs that are famed for another literary great who lived and was inspired by Cornwall coastline.    This is Daphne du Maurier’s country side.   Firstly though, it’s  the climb and walk past the massive 84 foot Daymark Tower painted in very noticable red and white stripes at Gribbin Head.   It can be seen for miles both walking towards it and away from it.   Standing there as a massive land based beacon since 1832 as a navigational aid for sailors.   It is a handy waymarker both for sailors and anyone who needs to find their way home after a few pints.  

Then its the drop down to the peaceful cove of Polridmouth where a stunning stone cottage sits right on the cove and incredibly right on the South West Coast Path.  The cottage being the inspiration for the beach house in Rebecca – du Maurier herself lived just up the valley.   This stretch of coastline is like a literary walk of fame.   I walked on thinking I bet she went on many a mooch through these shaded woods.    She incorporated it into all her writing, its no surprise she wanted her ashes to be scattered on the cliffs near her Cornish home.  

It was onto  a highlight of this day  and a highlight town walking into the  mid way stop of the day – the  very stunning and quaint little Cornish town of Fowey.   (pronounced like Claire Foy).   Ohhhh I loved this town!  I was meant to move through it quickly and board the ferry to start the second stage of the day but it was too beautiful to miss.   I walked right on past the ferry to keep going for a little explore – this was one of those places I wished I had more time for or had planned a stop here.   The heat made me thirstier than it did hungry so I didn’t bother sitting for a while in the many tea shops that I would of liked to sit a while in.    I took in as much as I could and headed for the ferry over to Polruan.  

I should of known it wasn’t a popular idea to do this stage in a rapidly increasing heat when I boarded a completely empty ferry.   The ferryman asked where I was heading,  …when I said Polperro it was just quiet nodding that followed.    When I disembarked he shouted after me,   “Fluids!”  – I wasn’t sure if that meant drink more fluids or I was covered in fluids.   I think both were apt.   

The haze had now lifted but the breeze didn’t seem to notice.  It was just non-blanketed full sun.  I needed a wood – no woods.   This next section is remote with nowhere to stop between Polruan and the end.   It is called The Roller Coaster for its series of steep ascents and descents into and out of one valley after another.   I had 3 bottles of water as I headed to begin on the terrain that forced a far slower pace but more time in the full sun and humidity.   The stage, as all the remote ones are, was completely stunning and the walk high over the cliffs meant I was  looking down on the best beach I have walked past so far – Lantic Bay – I had to keep stopping to try and get a picture that captured it  – blindingly white sand and crystal clear turquoise water.   I made my mind up – no matter what I would be spending a good part of my rest day submerged in crystal clear turquoise water!!  Rounding the corner, thinking this is too much temptation for a hot woman there appeared it’s little brother, Little Lantic Bay!  For God’s sake .   Just a smaller version of the same cool looking beach bliss.     I said out loud  ‘don’t even look Sally.   Eyes ahead only’ 

It seemed endless – the rolling coastering along , steep climbs and knee jarring downs.   I would think this is the last one , then I would get to the top and another one laid out before me.   I just kept thinking Polperro would appear over the next hill.   I must of thought this 5 times and it just didn’t happen.   I was the only walker so I really had a moment of thinking I was being a very foolish hiker – this had the affect of making me a bit more determined to move and to get it done.    If there was a day on this walk that I would have to describe as my digging deep day this would have to be it.   I just went head down , eyes on feet , steadying my pace to conserve energy and finding a rhythm to move onto each climb.   

Polperro can not be seen from afar – it’s beauty is its hidden isolated position between towering cliffs.  So you literally fall into it.   The sight of it as I rounded the corner into it’s streets was absolutely glorious.   Walking through the streets was glorious .   I was well and truly out of water an hour back so I just kept walking till I found an open shop – it was way after 5 so most shops were closed .  I found an open icecream shop , got two cold bottles of water and a tub of sugary mint icecream and sat outside.   I did not move for half an hour .    

It turned out to be the hottest June day on record and the most testing day of hiking on record for me.    I was thrilled when I got in a cold as cold shower that I had been able to complete it – I would of been so disappointed to miss a day because of conditions.   I was truly elated.  And cool .  And clean.   And it was the eve of my rest day and that was pure alchemy. 

I got myself hair washed and dressed – felt like a new woman and went to find the dinner that I was now so ready for .   I found it in the old and wonderful Three Pilchards Pub on the harbour.   I ordered the steak and ale pie , when I asked the barman if he  thought the chilli or the steak and ale he said , “How hungry are you?” .  I said I walked from Par.  He responded “That’ll be one steak and ale pie.”   It was joy!  It was gorgeous in there on this still, hot summers night knowing I was not waking up to an alarm and instead to a whole day tucked in to this tucked away piece of Cornwall. 

Night night from Polperro.. let the resting begin  xx

A truly summers day

Hazy and HOT

Daymark Tower, Gribben Head

Like glass , not a breath of wind

Daphne Du Maurier’s cottage in her Rebecca

Spotting beautiful Fowey

Shops in Fowey – zoom in on baked goods!

A pub named after the king of all the smugglers!

An empty ferry to Polruan

Lantic Bay – Ready just to dump bag and boots !!

roller coasting along