Day 11 – Reeth to Richmond

Today’s 12 and a 1/2 mile walk promised a day of all sun and not a drop of rain .  This worked out to be true,  Richmond on arrival was basking in the sun.    I left The Manse after a good breakfast served by Johnothan , another great host, and spent a bit of time ambling around Reeth.  It’s just so lovely.  I sat on a park bench on the village green for a while familiarising myself with today’s route.  I was walking solo again today,   very  happy to enjoy the quiet of the Dales.

(I popped into The Kings Arms to give the best wishes sent from Lyn and Vic to Linda.  I did this also last night , but missed her both times.  Her husband has passed the message on and said she was delighted to hear from you )

I started off , leaving Reeth to rejoin The Swale , my lovely companion from yesterday.  We meandered along together for a while but then the route led me away into pastures … I will meet up with this beautiful river again later in the day as it continues all the way to Richmond.   I followed my trusty hand drawn Stedman maps.  I am getting such a thrill from not only the walking but from the map reading .  I thought today,  it’s not unlike the treasure maps of childhood really , same concept , same thrill when you discover each clue : stile by the fallen tree or the stepping stones leading across the beck.   Woo hoo!!   I am talking out loud to myself quite a bit now , and announcing these thrills with gusto …”Yes! The cattle grid behind the barn, excellent!” No one around for miles to hear me and the sheep seem genuinely happy for me.   In fact today I have walked  and not seen a single soul .. Not one other walker.  Incredible.

I headed through some of the narrowest styles cut into drystone walls, built obviously for lithe, nimble farmers and not someone who had Pie of the Day, and headed toward Marrick Priory.  This
Priory was built in 1154 (!!!) for 13 Benedictine Nuns.     The ruins are impressive although I had to look from afar, as you can’t enter.   But then I was even more impressed as I headed up into Marrick Village through Steps Wood , and ascended the steep hill on what’s called Nuns Steps .  Named
because there are 375 stone steps all the way uphill.   These steps were all laid by the nuns!  They are
still there making this incredible pathway.  I could not believe the nuns… It was steep , I was puffing
at the top and had not lifted a single stone… Amazing, and being appreciated centuries on.

I headed up through fields , through stiles, through gates , through stiles with gates and came to what was perhaps my major challenge so far.

  Firstly, a word on cows.  When first starting this walk I was very apprehensive about walking through fields of cows.  As this walk crosses lots of farming land there is no choice but to have to enter fields with cows.   The advice given was : 1. Give them space and they won’t bother you.  2. Try to avoid entering a field of cows with calves  3.  NEVER enter a field with a bull.  Also , I believe a
farmer is not allowed to put a bull in a field that has a permissive path through it.   On this stunning walk to Richmond a fair amount of farm land is crossed, so lots of cows.   .  Firstly , I was walking through a very pleasant field when I rounded a corner to find countless cows and their CALVES.  I was already in the middle and not quite knowing how a cows mothering instinct would play out  and so stood there in limbo ..they glared at me , yes, they really glare.   No choice but to head for my saviour stile  and (oh,  Number 4.  Don’t run) because  I couldn’t run I did an Olympic Games style walk and launched through the stile trying to breath again.

This was fine and on I went when , after walking up a gorgeous little lane, I reach a stile with a gate which has a sign hooked over it that says : BULL IN FIELD ( with a picture of a bull) .  I stood motionless for a bit .   I then ripped open my backpack to consult every map resource I had to find an alternative route.  There was no alternative route.  Unless I back tracked a long , long way there was no choice but to go through it.  I took a deep breath , I scanned for the bull, I saw the bull, the bull saw me , I quietly opened the gate and stepped into the field.  He was in the far corner staring at me.
 I started off holding my breath- it wasn’t a walk, it wasn’t a run , I don’t actually remember my feet touching the earth and if observed I would say I resembled Micheal Flately river dancing across that field.  I just looked straight ahead, my heart pounding and not daring to make eye contact.  I Lord of the Danced my way to the gate, didn’t bother with the latch but just scaled that gate like a rat up a drain pipe and jumped down the other side.  I sat there in my safe field gloriously surrounded by my new favourite animal of all time, sheep.   When my breathing started again I got to my feet and headed  for Marske . Please let there be a tea room at Marske.

There was not a tearoom at Marske.  I had my packed lunch in a field perched on the edge of a stile.
I then headed up to Applegarth Scar.  The views looking back down were stunning and the River Swale was back in view.  It was getting hotter so by the  time I reached the beautiful Whitecliffe Wood I was grateful of the shade.   It was lovely through here , muddy but lovely and I happily slipped along until I came out and saw my first glimpse of the Richmond Castle in the distance.

Richmond was bustling when I arrived as I readjusted to cars, shops and people.  It is an ancient cobble stoned market town framed by the ruins of an 11th century castle.  It is the biggest town on the coast to coast route and many have a rest day here.  I headed straight for a cuppa and a  ‘I’ve been in a field with a bull’ reward scone.   My legs and feet were tired and I seized up a bit.   But I headed to Boots to replenish toiletries and then went to look at the castle.  It was getting on so I thought it would be closed , but it was open !  I got a second wind , you know how I love a castle girls!  Off I went up to the top and through the Great Hall (11th century!). I’ll tell you all about it when I get home… I went to the exhibition too!!

I finally headed to my B&B ,  Castle House.  I knew the lady, Lucy would be nice as I remembered her from our phone call when I booked a year ago.  And she was.  She remembered about it being my 40th and upgraded me – my room was stunning with an out of this world bath .  She then said she would bring me up wine and nuts whilst I was in it!  What a treat.  I used all the complimentary lotions and potions and went out for dinner feeling fabulous!    I went to a great pub and had a delicious steak (very fitting for today) It has been a cracker !! Night night xxxx love to you all.