Day 27 Portloe to Mevagissey (12.5 miles / 20km)

 Day 27   Portloe to Mevagissey (12.5 miles / 20km)

Thanks to Ralph I was able to leave the lovely Luggers Hotel after a even lovlier Luggers breakfast with feet fully taped and with my effort to safeguard my toe.   I couln’t see a blister on my toe that equalled the discomfort when I put my foot in my boot.  I was a bit perplexed.  

I thanked and said goodbye to  the hypnotic voiced lady on reception who farewelled me with the same gentle care as she greeted me.   Off I went – slowly and tentatively.   Damn this toe for putting a dent in my skipping up to the cliffs.   It was a beautiful day – and it was a gentle up and down until about an hour in the foot Gods intervened.    I started my first real descent and as my foot pushed to the front of my boot I felt something give.   It was instant relief !!  The cry of joy I made from that hillside would of spooked the cattle back in Minehead.    I took off boot and sock to investigage and a blister that must have formed under my nail had burst.   I sat in the bushes – first aid kit out , retaped and the feeling of that foot going back in my boot was like getting into clean bed sheets after a shower.    I started off again – I was singing – loud.  No one around, I just broke into song.   The irony that walking had caused it and walkiing repaired it did not escape me and  I marvelled , as I have so many times,  that the body just fascinates me in its ability to heal and repair itself.

The path led me to the quiet, tucked away,  tree lined streets of Caerhays Estate – the centre piece of which is Caerhays Castle.   It looks truly like a fairytale castle.   There it is in a valley only really visible once you round the bend of Porthluney Cove and look back .   Designed in the early 1800’s by John Nash who also designed Buckingham Palace, Marble Arch and much of Regency London,  it’s no wonder it stands looking as beautiful today.   He was obviously the go to guy when you wanted something roomy and impressive.   

Fuelled from my Luggers breakfast and with a foot that felt it belonged to me once again I began the days challenge of ascending Dodman Point.    At 400 foot high this headland is the highest point of the Sth Cornish coast.    The views going up and from the top are spectacular – and once at the top you stand next to a 6 metre tall granite cross there since 1896 to serve as a warning for sailors away from the danger lurking in the rocks below.   I stopped for a Luggers cookie before making my way down again and into the sandwich and tea stop of Gorran Haven.   A quick tuna and cucumber and hot tea and I kept moving .  Mevagissey had a Boots Chemist !  I needed to be there.  It was juts a gentle 5km walk from there over fields and I walked into this beautiful working harbour town in time for both Boots and a scone.   What an excellent pairing!     The lady in Boots was in great humour as I emptied my basket on the counter and said have a guess what I’m doing!    I asked if wine was antiinflammotory and the whole line of Mevaggisey Boots were in full agreement and we all collectively agreed it was the best course of action.    

I was walking to find my room and winding through the little narrow streets when I saw the The Fountain Inn , secreted away in a side alley back from the harbour – Mevagissey’s oldest pub from the 15th century had a front bar and a Smugglers Den at the back.   Decision made on the spot.   I walked on in and asked if I could book a table for dinner – and then added and if possible could I be in the Smugglers Den.  “You certainly can love”  he said.    Due to my new found fascination and regard for smugglers on this coastline I was thrilled to be having my tea in one of their dens.   I hurried to find my stay for the night , a room over a restaurant and found that it looked right over the harbour.    Pulling myself away from my window for a quick shower and change my day ended with a glorious Fish Pie in a Smugglers Den in a 15th Century Pub.     The friendliest of pubs – .  Mevagissey the friendliest of towns.   I think in Mevagissey everyone cares for everyone.   If I was a smuggler I would have been a very happy one in that Mevagissey Den at the end of a long day of smuggling. 

Night night from Mevagissey xx

Leaving Portloe and The Luggers

Caerhays Castle

Glorious cliff walking

The face of a pain free woman!

Smugglers Den, a Fish Pie and an Anti inflammatory Wine

View from my room as the sun goes down