Day 5 – Patterdale to Bampton Grange

Today has been an unbelievable walk out of Patterdale.  12 and a half miles and up to Kidsty Pike, the highest point on the whole coast to coast walk.  (2,560 feet) a lot of up and a lot of down … Aaahhh!!!

It has been an emotional day for me .  The first tear shed as I turned back after a big climb up to Angle Tarn to see the fells of the Lake District behind me.  I leave them behind me today, heading towards the Yorkshire Dales.   I didn’t realise how sad I would feel to end this part of the walk , it has been a dream to walk so long in this corner of the world that I have come to love.   I will cherish every huff and puff, valley , lane and cragg  of the last 5 days.   I have added a stone to as many cairns as I could on my way through , a chance to leave a little part of me here, a good piece of my heart stays too.     Of course I was off again when it was the fork in the road where John and Roger walked off on a different path to me.
The day began with a lovely breakie with Ian , he is such a great host and it has been an accomodation highlight staying here.   All wet gear returned toasty warm at 8 this morning.   He says this day, in his opinion is the best section of the whole walk.   I stopped at the quite famous village shop in a Patterdale to put together my own packed lunch for today’s big climbing day.   Sandwich , twix and her famous shortbread was pushed into my backpack alongside my waterproofs.   This shop , although small in stature, sells every single thing you can imagine .. It is a walkers dream – socks, blister repair kits , chaffing cream, Kendall mint cake, maps, gloves, cuddly stuffed toy hedgehogs, compasses, any food you could possibly fancy to make a picnic ….I’ve never seen such a range of items in such a small space.   I was transfixed ! Finally forced myself out to get started.

Off and up straight away, up a great , layer peeling climb up to Angle Tarn .  It was breathtaking  , looking back down on Patterdale and over to Ullswater.    Had my little moment  saying goodbye to it all , turned and headed forward to a different landscape before me .. My heart hurts,  my knees are doing the conga.    Angle Tarn was lovely, with a bit of tricky navigation at the top .  Stedman’s book

is a little confusing here. Lost the track and ended up with a small slog over a boggy bit .  But  back on track up to the The Knott.  As you head up again you look down on One Farmhouse Valley , named because there is actually just one farmhouse down there. !

Up to The Knott , and up to Kidsty Pike.  There was swirling mist and it got cold as we got to the top.  Hikers united here, and it turned out that all those present felt the same sadness about leaving the Lakes.   Good time for a twix.   A few decided not to head straight down to Haweswater Reservoir but go along the top to High Street, a high level alternative that leads to the route the Romans used.  It was a good choice , the mist cleared and we could see all that lay before us on the next stage of the walk , it also put off saying goodbyes.

Then we had to head down , down , down. – knees, knees, knees.  I went slow.  Then it became a
magic walk through fields of yellow buttercups, gorse and a steep down hill through a hard to see path in a field with ferns growing so tall, they were over our heads.  I thought  I saw an eagle here
and alerted anyone within earshot only to find out it was a crow.  Very impressive crow though.     Down and through to Burnbanks where myself and a lovely couple called Kevin and Julie (Queen of the Compass) headed for our night in the little village of Bampton and John and Roger headed to Shap .  At this little crossroads I said goodbye and cried as I walked away.  So thankful to them for all they had meant to me on this trip .  They stayed standing waving until I turned a bend and they were out of sight .

We finished our day with a lovely walk into Bampton , so pretty.( no mobile coverage , again)   All hikers are staying at the only pub in the village called The Crown and Mitre.  It is  divine!  Best pub
so far.  We got there , sore feet and I was thinking only of a cuppa and cake ,  so I ask the lady for a piece of cake and she immediately says,  “I don’t think there is any left so I”ll pop home and get you some!! ” We sit in out the front , in the glorious sunshine  – tea and homefetched cake, opposite the centuries old church with church bells ringing.  Aaahhhh….
   I met Julie and Kevin again later for drinks in the bar and dinner.  A really great night and meal.  Love this pub !  As I am heading up for bed I tell them how nice my room is and that
there are even sweeties by my bed , Julie says “what colour are they Sally?”  I say “orange I think ” .   Julie says ,  … ” they are earplugs my love” .  Turns out the church bells ring on the hour all night.

Night, night xxxx,  sweeties are firmly in xxxxxx