Day 7 – Orton to Kirkby Stephen

I Can Walk For Miles Climbing Over Stiles!  (For you Charlotte!)

Today was a 12 mile walk to the busy town of Kirkby Stephen.    The weather today was forecast as thunder , lightening and rain .   As I walk out of Orton I can see the sky changing to black .  I waterproofed myself as best I could and wore my waterproof map carrier around my neck for the first time .  This was fantastic except when the wind got hold of it, spun  it round my neck 3 times and nearly garrotted me.   The walk began by walking through lots of fields and climbing over 8 stiles in a row to cross the fields .  Around some gorgeous lanes and farmhouses and up onto Tarn Moor.   Fairly bleak on the moors today as the rain started up , slowly enough and just in scattered patches.

The walk headed upwards onto Ravenstonedale Moor , with views that were breathtaking.  The English countryside from up on these moors looked so beautiful .  I was walking for the last time today with Julie and Kevin before leaving them in Kirkby Stephen.   We stopped to find shelter by a drystone wall to have our morning tea of chocolates from the chocolate factory.  Ready to go again .

It was a long up hill walk up to Smardale Fell .  The Stedman book is excellent here, and although it was so remote, navigation was easy.   It was lovely countryside as we dropped down to Smardale bridge with excellent views of Smardale viaduct.   We needed to find shelter for lunch but gave up , we sat in a field and ate the soggiest sandwich , laughing at how miserable Kevin looked with his soggy crisps.

The rain was coming down hard now and we all buckled down to the long walk up Smardale fell.  It was slap you in the face rain that hurts.   We headed on through fields of wet cows, it was too difficult to see fresh poo and so just walked straight through it .  Then the wind came and the map carrier was
flying round my neck and so much water was in side our boots we could here each other squelching . This made walking hard as you start skidding inside the boot .   “Let’s go !!” shouted Kevin. And we did .  Finally after crossing more fields we arrived on the outskirts of Kirkby Stephen .

It was The Appleby fair this weekend and it was packed with gypsies/travellers .   This is why accomodation was hard to find.  I was very glad to be heading 3 miles away to a little village called Newbiggin-On-Lune for my night and for my rest day tomorrow.  The owner will bring me back to coast to coast route in Kirkby Stephen on Monday morning .  I said my goodbyes to the wonderful
Kevin and Julie .  And jumped dripping wet into a taxi.    When I gave the taxi man the name he said “ohhhh you’ll like it there… Very nice, very nice indeed”  I was excited but nothing could prepare me.

As we turned into the driveway I could not believe it .  It was a STUNNING country Manor – oh my goodness!  I said to the taxi man “I can’t knock on the door like this!!!”  I was dripping wet with mud and cow poo all up my boots and pants – I looked like I had been dragged through a hedge backwards when really it was requiring more of a Mary from Downton look.   But, no need to fear, as I knocked
on the door dripping and stinking , Hilary flings it open and cries “Welcome Sally!!!!”  She whisks off to get newspaper to stuff in my wet boots , helps me peel of my dripping outer layer and whisks it away to be dried .  She takes me up to my lovely room , directs me to a hot shower and then says if you come down in an hour and ring the bell I’ll serve tea and cakes by the fire.    Joy, joy, joy.

I get cleaned up and then her husband runs me into Ravenstonedale where they have booked me a table at a stunning pub in this little village – twinkling  lights around the door and Laura Ashley fabric at every window.    Another fabulous day .  Rest tomorrow – slippers only !  Can’t wait to see Hilary’s breakfast ! Xx