Day 2 – Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

Wow ! Well  and truly into Lake land and it has been an overwhelming hike today . I can’t describe how perfect this day has been for me .    It has been a long 15.5 mile walk , I started at 8.45 and finished at Rosthwaite near 5 .   Lots of walking  , a big climb and a big drop down into the beautiful valley of Borrowdale . This day in the lakes truly has it all covered – clever was Wainwright for devising a route that delivered so much in one day .
The day started well at the 17th century farmhouse converted into a stunning B&B , Ghyll Farm.  I have now voted these scrambled eggs as second best in the world .. Carol has slipped to third .  A gorgeous breakfast from gorgeous farmhouse kitchen, and then the loveliest thing happened . I was handed my first packed lunch since lower high school . All wrapped lovingly in a brown paper bag . sandwich, crisps, apple, juice and a slice of home made cake. If anyone has a doubt about doing this walk this should seal the deal … I just stopped short of hugging my hosts but they could tell by the love on my face how delightful receiving a packed lunch made by someone other than myself was .   I couldn’t wait until lunch time.  

I set off at 8.45 , full waterproofs on.  . Jacket, pants and back pack cover . Putting water proof pants on over walking pants in kitchen of the B&B was not my most elegant moment .. My boots were on and it was like pushing a lemon down a hose pipe.  Anyway after a bit of huffing and puffing  and apologising to all that had to witness this I was good to go .  It was a constant drizzle for the first half of the day as I headed past Ennerdale Water.  Very misty , so not much of Ennerdale to see .  Long stretch along the northern shore ., avoided the south shore as more of a scramble over wet rocks .   It was a long, wet walk past Ennerdale water towards Black Sail Youth Hostel .  No navigational worries here, just a track leading straight to Black Sail YH.  This is a very stunning and remote YH standing all alone in a valley.   I walked this leg with John and a Roger . These two are incredible. They have hiked everywhere!  They are so good at hiking, navigating and have the fitness level of 20 year olds.  They are amazing me ..  John  is very , very chatty . Roger reminds me of my Dad – quiet , no fuss, brilliant and totally not patronising .  Over the toughest climb today I went up behind him and not once did he turn round to say ‘are you alright,’ ‘can you manage’- he just assumed I could do it – exactly like my Dad would have done .  I really appreciated this.  He gave me such a grin at the top.  No words, just a grin.  I felt on top of the world.

I had my packed lunch at Black Sail and for a 1 pound donation you could have a cup of tea .  The home made cake and cuppa is what go me up Loft Beck.  In this valley shrouded in mist with the great fells of pillar and haystacks watching , up I went in a hard climb up the beck .  Amazing it was , the rain finally stopped and at the top , high up with views over Ennerdale and Buttermere the sun came out .  It was breathtaking .  I was looking over to where Wainwright had his ashes scattered and I could see why. It was silent and majestic and it felt like the top of the world.  

We headed on up following an indistinct path marked by cairns .  then down, down , ouch , down , ouch .  I think I prefer up to down .  I was very cautious .  A lot of broken ankles down this bit and I was really looking forward to my pint and not a stretcher off the mountain.  Then it was the final walk down into Borrowdale , the sun was now out good and proper !  Through an enchanted wood , a lovely valley contrast to the high fells and into the little picture postcard village of Rosthwaite.   Dinner  tonight was with all the hikers in the  one pub .    A magic day of walking .  Tucked into Scafell Hotel for the night .     Nice place, no water pressure in the shower for single travellers ( a damn shame when all I could think about for the last 3 miles was a hot shower – ) a small room , way, way  way , way down the hall.   Will get compass out in the morning to find reception.