Day 43 Seaton to Seatown (14.9 miles /24km )

 Day 43   Seaton to Seatown    (14.9 miles /24km )

I met Caroline in her lovely kitchen early where she had laid the table ready for me and had the kettle on.  We both had tea while I had breakfast – she was joy to chat to and then to add to it she brings out her marmalade.   One of my ponderings on this walk has been that I now feel I have entered a new chapter of my life.   This chapter is being the making of marmalade chapter.   I always been the hunter of good marmalade especially while walking but up until now actually making it is something I have heard other people doing  never thought it possible for me to do.   But now I realise I just wasn’t in the marmalade making chapter.     This walk has changed me.   I am ready.   Way back in Silver Cottage, on Day 4 , Sophie planted the seed in her cottage kitchen with her ‘sunshine in a jar’ description of marmalade and Caroline has just sealed the deal with hers.    Guess what everyones getting for Christmas this year.  

It was time to get going to get my timing right for today.  This day was going to give me an end of day challenge.   When I planned this walk I decided that on certain days I would need to  combine two sections so I could complete it in 7 weeks.    I needed it to work that I had 47 walking days and 2 rest days.   The walk is geneally 52 stages so based on factors of distance, terrain and elevation I chose which of the stages could be put together in one day.    This was one of those days.   I had looked at the first part of this day and without any great climbs decided I could move through it quite quickly giving me time for another stage in the afternoon.  

This first 12 km to Lyme Regis is a unique section called The Undercliff.   An almost 12 km long National Nature Reserve created by massive landslides in the Victorian era.    These landslides have over time  created a coastal jungle  – an environment that is like no other section on this walk.   For the morning I was in a whisper quiet dense world of ferns and twisted trees, underfoot being a trail of twisted rocks and roots that took full concentration on feet,  this was ankle twisting territory , big time.   It was lush and lovely twisty walking and it was just a fortutious bonus that the dense canopy provided complete shade on this very hot day for the entire morning.  

After a good few hours jungling I popped out back into the bright sunlight – and readjusted my eyes well enough to spot a lovely cafe serving sandwiches .  I sat in the rear garden having such an excellent tuna toasted sandwich – it was a really good choice and with a pot of tea I was ready for stage 2.   

I had a little trepidation while eating my toasted tuna in the sun as the second part of the day ended with the ascent to Golden Cap.  It is perfectly named after it’s striking peak which is crowned by beautiful glowing golden sandstone.  This 627 foot peak is the highest point on the southern coast of Great Britain.   I was excited to summit it but my hope was I would still have the legs to at the tail end of the day and at around the point I would of already walked 22km.   I decided not to allow my legs to think it was nearing the end of the day at any point from toasted tuna onwards.   Mind over matter.   

As I walked out of pretty Lyme Regis on it’s sea wall I stepped from South Devon onto the Dorset coast line.   It was a turning point toward the final stage of this epic trail.  After some gently undulating field walking and gate opening I got to a busy and bustling Charmouth Beach.   Here from sea level the views of Golden Cap in the distance are stunning.   On the wall of the Charmouth cafe and icecream seller is the most stunning painting of it .    While I was admiring the painting I thought I may as well admire with a  raspberry ripple icecream in my hand.  So I did.   Perfect for the job on a still hot day.  I headed into the afternoon sun and as if to thoughtfully provide a warm up I headed up the preview climb that is Broom Cliff.  Then onwards in higher fields and starting the increasingly steep climb up to the golden peak,  by this time it was about 5pm.   My mind completely changed from thinking this might not have been a good idea at the end of a day to how brilliant to be doing this at this time of the day.   I can not describe how magical the light was  – as the light changed it actually shines bright gold as the sun hits it.   On this cloudless day it was truly glowing.   

Up I went – and at that time of day I had the climb all to myself.  I made it to the top at 5.30.  In perfect light and with the gratitude towards my legs for not having complained for one moment of it. 

I felt elated.    The views were incredible , the sun hititng the gold of it at golden hour created a moment on this trail I will not ever forget.   I had a little cry up there after 6 weeks of some of the most challenging walking I had ever done and  standing on top as high as I was looking back and seeing the cliffs I had walked along running into the distance and wrapping round the sparkling blue of the water.  

I made my way down – in no hurry to leave but also wanting to get to Seatown for a much needed hot boots off and cold shower.     

I arrived in the tiny  Seatown which boasts a water front location on a beautiful beach with a beautiful pub.   With limited options for food I had booked a table for dinner  and sat there on a table outside as the sun eventually dipped.   I had seen so many beautiful things today.    My feet had taken me to remote places only feet can get you.   I just love that .  

Night night from a glowing girl in Seatown. xxx  

Starting with the high point

Another high point

The Undercliff

Just a really excellent sandwich

Lyme Regis

Raspberry Ripple first…

 

Making my way to the top

Getting closer

Views on the way

The summit of Golden Cap

Elated

View from The Anchor Inn – Seatown