Day 28 Mevagissey to Par (11.25 miles / 18km)

 Day 28   Mevagissey to Par  (11.25 miles / 18km)

Instead of by alarm I woke to the actual sound of fishermen’s banter , thats how close to the harbour my bed was! 

I didn’t have breakfast included at this stop so in a sleepy , not quite open Mevagissey I did a progressive breakfast around the narrow streets.   Yoghurt from supermarket, banana and berries from the fruit seller and a bacon bap and pot of tea from a tea shop.   The heat wave that was coming in a gradual warming of each day was the talk of the town and on the front page of the newspaper.      The man in the supermarket asked where I was walking to and when I said Par he exclaimed ” you are going to be INCINERATED!”    I bought an extra bottle of water off him at this point.  

It was warm but not in a spontaneously burst into flames warm.   The first stage of the walk, heading to the famous harbour village of Charlestown,  Henry Stedman described as a 12km stretch of rolling steep gradients up to Black Head second only to tomorrows final section into Polperro.    Starting with the most ardous part of the day seemed the better option given the heat – from Charlestown to Par it was a much gentler finish to this stage.  I was keen to get moving. 

The full sun of the cliff top walking was punctuated with lovely , secluded woodland and the chance to cool off and delight in the smell of an English woodland.  I’m calling it…English woodland is my favourite smell.     It was absolutely beautiful – every turn as the path led around shaded , flowered corners – how pure and simply wonderful walking is when you don’t know where a beautiful trail will lead you – ducking under branches, jumping stones over creeks , climbing slate stiles built into ancient walls.   It’s like the feeling as a child when you were allowed to go off and explore.   At 52 it still holds the same delight.  I had to stop again and again and say out loud , as I have many times, when it takes my breath away, “would you just look at that”.

It was warming up and my t shirt was now sticking to me as it got wet with sweat.   The water was sparkling at beaches below – the idea of being in it getting harder to resist.    I passed the remotely placed stone marker for the Cornish poet and historian AL Rowse.  He published over a 100 books , most famously on Elizabethan England and a book of poetry about Cornwall.   The words “This was the land of my content” are inscribed on the stone.    How much I agree Mr Rowse.    I think he would of liked the secluded , only accessible by foot position of this marker.  

This cracker of a stage ends in Charlestown at the perfect time for a sandwich and tea.  I was not looking my finest with my wet with sweat t shirt situation and felt badly for the other summer dress clad  people enjoying a panini in the sunshine at the Charlestown cafe.   I mouthed “sorry ”  to the table closest .   I was grateful they had pretty much finished their meals as were they I think.  

I decided to not rush on and joined the majority getting a cornish icecream instead – I was in no hurry to leave this gorgeous grade 11 listed Georgian Harbour town , it had cobbled quays, tall ships and was a Poldark filming location – so glad Ross didn’t mingle around the corner and see the sweaty state of me.   

Post Charlestown is was a gradual grass sloped walk to Par.  To my Air B and B which was actually on the Sth West Coast Path itself !….and directly opposite The Welcome Home Inn Pub serving home cooked meals.  

Susie greeted me with all the kindness that has marked the stays of this walk over and over.    My room was the whole top floor of their home , and had a little kitchen she had stocked with eggs /bread/cookies and all the things.  She handed me a laundry bag and said “just pop it all in there and I’ll get it sorted”.     My enjoyment of this whole journey is as much the stays and genuine care that ends my days as it is the countryside.  

Cold shower and I just cross the road to The Welcome Inn for a cottage pie like my Mum would make .  xxx.   As I head to the Co-Op for some supplies – I see Par descending on the crisps and beer aisles getting England match ready,  England Vs Ghana .   No goals were scored so I fell asleep all clean and cool to a very quiet Par.   

Night night from right on the Sth West Coast Path! xxx

English green

…and turquoise

rolling hills

Into the Woods

AL Rowse …Content.  (Me too.)

Resisting urge to leg it down

Charlestown

Thank you Susie xx