Day 6 Braunton to Instow (13 miles / 21km)

 Day 6       Braunton to Instow  (13 miles / 21km)

Today , as if to reflect my feeling at leaving Silver Cottage , it was overcast and rainy and for the first day I headed off in my raincoat.    The timing of cloud cover and rainy filled sky couldn’t have been better ,  it was an excellent day for this as it wasn’t a day of views and vistas or exposed cliff walking.   

After two nights at this gem of a bed and breakfast I packed up to move on.    I know there is so much more to come but I can not honestly imagine a stay being as special as this one has been .     I will not forget it.    Sophie and I were in no rush to hurry the departure and sitting at breakfast over two pots of tea and squeezing in as much time and conversation with this wonderful lady as possible was the days highlight.   She wrapped up a home made roadie treat for me in wax paper tied with brown string and we said our goodbye in the garden and both marvelled at the pure serendipity that is meeting a kindred spirit.   I waved goodbye and turned the corner still laughing at her comments coming from over the wall and I knew with all my heart that the world is a lovlier place with Sophie in it.

This day was to be flat ,  really really flat, the whole way – swapping rugged sea cliff walking  for a smooth, paved path built directly on top of a disused Victorian railway line.    Because the massive, tidal mouth of the River Taw blocks a direct coastal route , the trail has to accomodate with a sweeping inland horeshoe maneouver.    So it’s a walk down one side , a bridge cross over a grade 1 listed medieval stone bridge that has been spanning the tidal river since the 13th century and then a turn  back towards the sea for the walk down the southern bank of the estuary.   To run with the back drop , Song of the Day was Rain by Terence Trent D’Arby – a difficult one to do justice to without back up singers but I gave it my best go.  

The only sign of life along this stretch is the Fremington Quay Cafe  and you virtually have no choice but to walk through it , it’s famous for its delicious everything.    It was the perfectly timed sandwich  and tea stop .  No tables inside so I ordered and perched  at an outdoor one under a sun umbrella and had tea and an exceptional tuna baguette .     It was  Peter Kay raining – that fine rain that soaks you through!  It was a misty , flat 7 km to go as I headed off to finish this day.   It was just peaceful railway straight walking with a green canopy of English trees filled with English birds either side and with the fresh rain it had the lovely smell that my 8 year self imagined an Enid Blyton book to smell like.  

I arrived at the beach side village of Instow – small and pretty with views across to the fishing village of Appledore .  I love these names!  My bed and breakfast was another 15 minute walk out of town and I reached it to find Caroline the owner ready to welcome me with cake on arrival and to let me know that on a quiet Monday in Instow there were very few guests so she had upgraded me to the Big Room!  Wet shoes were off and I was up those stairs like a shot.   

The thought of walking back to Instow beach front for something to eat wasn’t too appealing so I decided instead on a long hot shower and to climb into my Big Room big bed with a cup of tea and Carloline’s Victoria Sponge.     Breakfast should be lovely as her and husband Colin were both private Chef’s before restoring and opening this tucked away Bed and Breakfast.     On the offer of a take away lunch pack for tomorrow I was all in.    

It’s an early night as tomorrow is my longest day of the whole walk at 35km.  A little apprehensive but Henry Stedman says its doable and we all trust him now.  

 Lights out in Instow. xx  

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Cosy in Instow xxx