Coast to Coast England

Day 3- Rosthwaite to Grasmere – Fun in the Sun !!

Today the sun shone and shone !  I had (this is for you Kate , FUN IN THE SUN!!!)

In my map/guide book for this days walking  it describes today as a ‘Lakeland Classic’.   For me today delivered everything I love about England , a cooked breakfast,  a valley walk along side a babbling beck, drystone walls  covered in moss, narrow paths bathed in green from the canopy of forest above , a climb up onto a fell that Wainwright loved, a packed lunch , a little wood where Wordsworth composed and was inspired , and a great big scone with jam and cream with a pot of English breakfast tea.   Today has been a cracker !

I knew the sun would shine all day today (thank you Maureen).  And it was spectacular.  Because of this  after my breakfast of two poached eggs on toast at Scafell, I decided to take the high level alternative route today . I got my packed lunch from Scafell hotel , another little brown paper bag filled with goodies… I have met another lone hiker from Day 1 called Susan and we keep bumping into each other comparing our packed lunches and who has the best ‘surprise’ of the day . Today she thought she had  won with her wagon wheel but I trumped her with … wait for it… A hard boiled egg and a full tomato ! She yelled “wagon wheel !” across the fells as I rounded a corner  and I yelled “hard boiled egg” .  She yelled “you win!”  she is staying at at a B &. B with a television in the bathroom so my guess is she will make a comeback tomorrow.

     The day started with a beautiful walk out of Rosthwaite along  Stonethwaite Beck.  It was so Lake District lovely.  A few walkers kept mentioning Lining Crag as the challenge for the day .  My good god !! I started the up climb and to anyone that would listen I would declare “Christ, they were all right about Lining Crag, this is a steep !” To which they replied “oh, your not on it yet”.    Up it went and then I hit Lining Crag.  It went from hiking to climbing – hands and feet climbing up to the top .  The views up high are breathtaking and the sense of achievement just overwhelming .  Thank goodness for the sun as I would not have fancied this climb in bad weather or mist.   I kept Roger in my sights as his presence gives me confidence .    The section after this over the top was boggy and the path was non existent .  A hard bit of navigation before dropping down the other side.

It was this at this section that I misjudged a muddy , boggy bit – it looked firmer than it was and I went down into peat bog up to my knee .   Girls , it was a bit like closing the garage door on Dads car , swear  words just popped out .  I was covered in mud – all in my boots , up my pants – I couldn’t even see my boot .  I lay on the grass for a minute as another hiker yelled ” it will dry ” . Ok, up I hot and got to the point of the walk where you could choose high or low route into Grassmere .  I had my sandwich , my boiled egg and said “let’s go high!!”  It’s amazing what a boiled egg can do.  Most coast to coasters seemed to choose this route today because of the weather. Everyone took it at different speeds so it very quiet and solitary up there,

I walked over Calf Crag, then onto the ridge walk of Pike of Carrs, then up to Moment Crag and then Gibson Knott and finally Hem Crag.  Up here there were 360degree views over the fells. The view down to Grasmere was spectacular.  I am so glad I did this route today,  it was such a great hike .   It was a magic , unforgettable part of the whole experience.  All day meeting lovely people taking on the same challenge , laughing and encouraging each other.

Then came the down.  I don’t like the down as much as the up .  It took all my concentration, so determined not to twist an ankle at this stage.  This  down was endless and my knees were screaming at the end.  But then comes this final walk into a lovely wood and Poets Walk.  This is where Wordsworth would compose and his sis , Dorothy would sit and keep him company – no doubt pack a little bit of lunch for them and tell him to get a move on as she was ready for a cuppa.   Out of the wood and a final mile into Grasmere.

It was a 10 mile walk today , instead of 8 , but worth the extra .  Grasmere was glowing in the sun as I arrived.  All I could think about was a scone and a cup of tea.   Oh , what joy !  I could have been moved to write prose over this scone .   I then made it to my home for the night , The Swan Hotel , a very old place mentioned in Wordsworth poem , The Waggoner ! I know, as if the day couldn’t get any better . Lovely room, long shower and then a stroll back into Grasmere for a great dinner with all my hikers ,  a big table of us eating everything in sight !  Fresh air makes you peckish.

A Lakeland Classic indeed!  Night, night .xxxxx.. One more day of no mobile phone coverage and then I’ll be back girls xxxx

2 Comments on “Day 3- Rosthwaite to Grasmere – Fun in the Sun !!

  1. Wow, wow, wow! I am as equally impressed by the beauty of your surroundings as I am by your prowess as a blogger! So brilliant, go Sal! Loved the picture of your packed lunch – always love a good food pic. You have to keep us all updated on what snack surprises you get next, will it top an egg and a tomato?!? So pleased you are making friends along the way to share the adventure with. Even more thrilled that yiu found a path that led directly to a pub – that's my kind if hike! Have just realised that I can't correct typos without starting again, so apologies for that! Missing yiu heaps. Another typo, I clearly have issues with typing 'you'! Can't wait for the next instalment! Lots of love, Liz xxx

  2. Dear Sally, aesthetically we are twins! You are having my holiday. The paragraph on everything you love about England is everything I love England! In a less self-centred note – I am very impressed by the size of the hills you are climbing and by your general competence. You are so accomplished – the less we'll rounded of us have no chance of competing with you to attain suitable husbands. Xx shosh

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