Day 21 Porthcurno to Mousehole (9.5 miles / 12.6 km)

18 June 2026 - By Sally

Day 21 Porthcurno to Mousehole (9.5 miles / 12.6 km)

I got an early start at the Seaview B and B . This was to be a day with a technical section that was a slow and deliberate foot placement concentration component midway . It’s another section that comes with exclamation marks in the description. I took two nurofen. I also wanted to get to Mousehole in plenty of time for both the described cuteness of the village and the “unrivalled” cream tea at The Four Teas cafe.

(Mousehole is pronounced ‘Mowzell’… so glad Henry Stedman clarified this as I would of been Mouse Hole’ing up a storm and annoying all locals on sight).

This walk has truly been varied in all the ways – most especially the weather. I have had the lot so far – todays offering was FOG . Lots of it and not lifting all day FOG. I could hear the roaring of the Atlantic on my right shoulder , I could hear it crashing against cliffs, I could hear it washing gently into coves – I just could not see any of these happening. Henry said there were numerous exquisite little coves . I just can’t confirm this. But it was beautiful atmospheric walking – green and lush with narrow trails , overgrown and over head height. There was a lot of getting thwacked in the face by wet foliage. It was one thwack after the other so I was getting wetter and more bedraggled as the day went on. The trail led me down a steep descent and through the mist the tiny fishing cove of Penberth emerged – a more remote and quiet a spot for a fisherman you would be hard pushed to find. I imagine it has always looked this way and it always will.

The path crosses a beach of boulders that was a balancing act, helped by my wonderful poles and again the confidence that comes with being completely unobserved! I turn off boulder beach, ankles in tact and with the fog getting thicker I practically walked straitht into a bright white lighthouse. It was very impressive up close , it would of been helpful if it had been lit and signalling its prescence to walkers .

Then starts the technial rock negotiatimg section – there was no speeding through and I had not packed a sandwich – Porthcorno had nothing at all open when I left , so I was on this with a only a long ago burnt off breakfast to fuel me. I finally emerged , the fog had made me and everything soaking wet . I was dying for a cup of tea and there it was – the gem that was the Lamorna Cove Cafe. As if thoughtfully placed to service walkers who had just done this section and were in need of a steadying hot drink and sandwich.

I dropped my pack but every table was taken , luckily two Australians who I had seen earlier and crossed paths with in the fog invited me to share their table. Andre and Andrew ( only one letter separating them). are old friends who are breaking it down and doing chunks of the walk over the years. 10 days for on this trip. Now – here comes a major highlight , not just of this day but of the whole walk. I have become a bit obsessed with mackeral since being in Cornwall. So when I saw a mackeral and horseradish cream toasted sandwich on the menu I was in. Well — I can not describe to you the flavour of this sandwich- it was that good. In fact I think I’m calling it and saying Yes, It was absolutely the best thing I’ve had so far on this walk. Andre had major food envy and so after my raves he went up and bought one to take away. I popped my head round the corner of the kitchen to thank whoever was repsonible for this. His beaming face was rightly very proud . This is one of those things that should gain world recognition and people should travel from all corners to try it. Please if you are ever near Lamorna Cove Cafe – get right in and order an English Breakfast tea and the mackarel and horseradish cream sandwich. Word will catch on and I feel there will be queues forming.

With the post sandwich burst of energy I shot off to complete the final 3km. By 4pm I was walking down and into what Dylan Thomas described as “the lovliest village in England”- grateful for an early arrival and for making it to The Four Teas in time for an ‘unrivalled scone’ and a steaming hot cup of tea. It was excellent – I was wet and hair plastered to my forehead but the Four Tea ladies did not mind one bit. Mousehall is very beautiful and I wandered the tiny streets in a very happy daze.

I got to my very beautiful stay for the night at The Old Coastguard , washed both my hair and my muddy pants and Andre and Andrew headed to The Old Coastguard so we had a lovely dinner and said goodbye as they finish their time on the South West Coast Path. The fog may or maynot lift for tomorrow.

Night night from very beautiful

Mousehole (Mowzell) xxx

A Misty start