Day 35 Bigbury On Sea (Bantham) to Salcombe (13 miles/21km )

 Day 35    Bigbury On Sea (Bantham)  to Salcombe   (13 miles/21km )

  After the timed dash of yesterday it made me even more appreciative of a day when I was looking at all that was around me more than I was at the time .   I could stop to marvel when marvelling moments came along and thank goodness as this was a day for the marvelling.     It was a day of walking that has gone into the Most Memorable group.    If there is any stretch so far I would want to share with everyone so I could discuss it, it is this one.   It had everything and it was magic from the start to finish.   I had been told by a local at the Sloop Inn to add an extra hour on at least today for the stopping to take photos factor .  He was exactly right.   I took more photos today I think than on any other.    It was ‘would you look at that’ walking the whole of the day.

I set off after a lovely breakfast at The Sloop .       The Sloop Inn’s kitchen has raised the bar for bar food.   It has been a lovely stay in Bantham.       The trail starts you off wrapping around and almost through the Thurlestone Golf Course.   Right on the coast as so many of them are.    Golfers and walkers collide in the most polite of ways with signs asking you to stop and wait while someone takes their shot at certain points.    Signs warning DANGER FLYING GOLF BALLS and finishing with Enjoy your walk.   So lovely.   

After managing to not get a flying golf ball to the head I gave a happy wave to the golfers and dropped into the tiny and beautiful Hope Cove – a smugglers favourite , it is tucked away wrapped around a stunning golden sanded cove .   At its centre is a beautiful pub nestled between incredible thatched roof cottages shaped like they have been moulded by the wind over time and looking like a favourite slipper looks after years of wear.     Hope Cove, with its lovely name, also made lovely sandwiches to go.    Excellent !  Sandwich purchased and after many pictures of bended cottages,  off I went full of good hope.  

The walk from here is bookended by two promontories – Bolt Tail and Bolt Head.   The tail first.    It was a breathtaking landscape of towering jagged cliffs as you walk the ups and downs of it crossing the high expanse of Bolberry Down .    With my favourite kind of trail at every step it was wild, exposed walking with deep coastal valleys hiding pristine small beaches that only seem accessible if you stumble across them on foot.   One of them being the glorious Soar Mill Cove.   I was high above it and as I turned the corner to see the valley that wraps around it I just had to stop in my tracks.   It was the kind of view that finds you with tears on your face before you even realise you have a lump in your throat. I found what has to be the best sandwich stop of my entire South West Coast Path.    It was a bench off the trail that was amazingly hidden from view but that sat on the edge of the cliff on the top of it all looking down at the valley .  I could not believe this little bench .  It was like getting a seat in the Royal Box for me!  I could not believe this spot.     With the sun shining on it all making the green even greener and the turquoise water literally sparkle I sat with my excellent Hope Cove sandwich.   In the quiet and stillness of it I sat quiet and still –  my heart felt like it would burst as I had to keep wiping tears away.  It was that kind of walking moment , when its so much bigger than you are and you feel simply in awe to be in it.    

I realised there that I was at the 5 week mark.  What a moment to mark this and know that not one part of me wanted this to come to an end or rush by.    How grateful I was to feel that way having never walked for as long before or this distance – it was the unknown bit going into this.  At this marker now knowing I feel like this on Day 35 is something that I felt just so delighted by.   Each day of this 5 weeks was wildly unique, I could never have imagined that.  New terrain, new weather,  new challenge.

The next challenge had decided to lie right across the path as I left the valley.   I tore myself away from my bench .   (I have taken to calling it my bench …girls remember this ).   I was looking down and readjusting my pack and thankfully looked up when I did.   Just in time as there was no sound to warn me what was ahead.      There, laying right across the path was this tremendous horned mound of muscle and hair – 5 times my size and watching me approach like he was collecting a toll from anyone wanting to pass.    You really need to see the picture below to see what I mean when I say this dude was not moving for anyone.   I thought my God if Vinnie Jones was an animal this would be it.     Vinnie just sat looking me straight in the eye – he had the advantage and he knew it.     I looked at my options.    One side was cliff edge one side hill, so I abandoned trail and went off into the gorse and up the hill keeping one eye on him saying “fair enough Vinnie , as you were” .   He seemed happy with my choice and stayed put.  

Eventually after rounding the gorgeous rocky spires of Bolt Head on a trail that picks it way over stone and rock ledges the roaring ocean that is crashing below disappears and is repalced with the sheltered waters of the Kingsbridge Esturay.  The path drops through woodlands, because on this ideal day ending with a wood just makes the ideal day finish in the ideal way .   But then it gets even better because you start walking to Salcombe on beautiful roads looking up at stunning homes stretching up the steep surrounding hills.   Oh, it is  beautiful  – no wonder this is where the famous come to buy homes in Devon.   I was gazing up trying to see in windows and guess who might live there.  Bit creepy I know but I’d heard Rod Stewart had one and I was keen to meet him. 

 Then as I am walking with my head on a swivel trying to see in at peoples soft furnishings I walk past the sea front cafe/restaurant delight that is The Winking Prawn.    I veered off with one swift movement  and was straight in,  back pack off ,table on the front overlooking a cove with a golden beach .   To end this day I ordered a pot of English Breakfast and a piece of Victoria Sponge.    No words to describe the taste of this cake on this day only that if you are ever near the Winking Prawn, stop whatever you are doing and go there immmediately for a piece of this cake.     I then find out from the waiter , who had to listen to me talk about the Victoria sponge for a good 5 minutes , that this is the restaurant used in the film The Roses where Olivia Coleman is the chef.     I went inside for a look and recognised it from the movie.   There were pictures of the cast all on the walls.     I wonder if Oliva had the Vic Sponge.  Bet she did.  

I finished the walk through the winding streets of a very sophisticated and classy Salcombe – with beautiful shops selling homewares and boating/yachting wear – stripes and high collars and casual chic was in each window.   Arriving at my stay above the Fortescue Inn pub and feeling the glow that comes from a perfect a day of weather, scenery, climbs, green valleys, shaded woods, scrambling rocks, sandwich stop , sandwich, bench, views, cake and destination.    I think I may have exhausted hyperbole today and left myself nowhere to go for the rest of Devon but it really, really did have it all this day.  

Night night as the sun sets over Salcombe Harbour.   xxx

It was this kind of walking today…heaven

Good start avoiding flying balls

Soar Mill Cove

Vinnie Jones

Stunning cliff edge walking

Beautiful trail rounding intriguing corners!

Ending with a wonderful wood

The Winking Prawn’s Victoria Sponge

My stay for the night

Salacombe from my bedroom window