The sun was out and it was glorious ! T-shirt weather for the walk out of Bampton . It was a lovely walk back through the tiny village to Burnbanks, where we had turned off the path for Bampton, and to pick the coast to coast path back up. Rolling hills and fields, laneways covered in flowers made it a gorgeous walk. I am so glad I stayed in Bampton and didn’t walk straight to Shap yesterday . Bampton doesn’t have the tourist crowds of Grasmere but it is such an unspoilt village and it looks like nothing at all has changed there in hundreds of years . The pub was great and it was truly the nicest view from a bathroom I’ve ever had.
The walk through woodland to Naddle Bridge is so lovely , following Haweswater Beck. I keep stopping to look at old bridges crossing the beck . I think I love these old bridges nearly as much as drystone walls. I was walking with Julie (Queen of the Compass) and Kevin today. They are a couple from Manchester who love walking and get out nearly every weekend to do it. This walk is nearly as exciting for them as it is for me so we were oooohhing and aahhing altogether. They are such good company and they have taught me some excellent map reading tips . Kevin knows that his life won’t be worth living if Julie and I don’t make it to Orton by 5. In the little village of Orton there is a Chocolate factory … with a cafe which we were told sells the best chocolate cake for miles . And while we are very much looking forward to Shap Abbey, built in 1199 , it was our chocolate factory timing that seemed to spur us on .
It says in the map book that sign posts for the walk greatly improve as you leave the Lakes and this is true. It was a nice surprise to see signage occasionally and lots of kind farmers had painted arrows or notices on gates and sheds. Despite this we lost the path our way a little and had to take a compass bearing in the middle of a field though – Julie was straight on it . We arrived at Shap Abbey and stopped to explore . It’s ruins are impressive and the craftsmanship of the 12th century leaves me amazed. The abbey was the last to be dissolved by Henry VIII in 1540. Nice little spot by the River Lowther, clever planning.
We stopped in Shap for a well timed sandwich, and walked out of Shap to cross over the M6 via a footbridge , very strange to see cars whizzing by after 6 days without them . Remember girls that my map book then said I crossed a ‘muddy field with rabbits ‘ . I excitedly entered the muddy field with rabbits only to find it had neither mud or rabbits. I think the map book should be changed here to reduce the disappoint of lovers of mud or rabbits. After only 10 minutes of hill climbing the M6 is long gone and the walk ahead is crossing limestone pavement and wild moorland . The landscape is very different to the Lakes but it feels so remote and wild. Of course, I felt it was definitely time to whip out my best Kate Bush for Kevin and Julie – waving arms I leapt through the heather … “Heathcliff…oh it’s me, Cathy, I’ve come home, let me in -a-your window ow ow ow “. Kevin was quite good at hiding his disappointment when I said I couldn’t quite remember the words in the versus. Might google this for tomorrow , more moors ahead.
Today’s walk ended up being 14.8miles , clocked by Julie ‘s very clever mile clocking device. It was hot and we had a long afternoons walk to reach the final couple of lovely shaded lanes and meadows leading into Orton . I was raving about about Bampton and here I go again about Orton . It is picture postcard lovely. We were sun burnt and parched as we marched with purpose towards Ortons chocolate factory . It was just after 4 , perfect ! Time for cake (the best! ) see picture …and time to get a basket and do a little shopping ! I hope I know two girls that like chocolate… xxxx. Julie and I then headed up the hill to visit Ortons 13th century church.
I checked into the pub where I was staying , The George, and had a lovely shower after releasing my feet from my boots … They remain thankfully blister free . Down to dinner, all walkers united and we achieved our first ‘lock in’. Everyone happy to stay out late tonight as we part company tomorrow due to my rest day on Sunday. I crawled up to bed finally , a truly magic day on a perfect June day.
