Day 42. Sidmouth to Seaton (10.3 miles / 16.6km)

 Day 42.  Sidmouth to Seaton   (10.3 miles / 16.6km)

Special mention to the breakfast at Dukes Seaside Inn.   Excellent eggs and a big teapot that kept tea steaming hot.   I love a breakfast included!  

This smaller but mighty stage leaves all holiday makers and crowds behind and lifts me back into the very welcomed cliffs and climbs , it is an epic stage and glorious walking.   On this very hot day when I think most people were choosing to be in the water rather than walking above it I had the whole place to myself.   

Leaving Seaton along the seafront it was an immdediate climb – the stage is a series of very steep and largely wooded pathways leading down to gorgeous beaches that are quiet and secluded.   The first climb is the Salcombe Hill Cliff.   At this stage and after 42 days my preferred terrain is Up.  Everything seems to work and not hurt climbing up.   Down….a different story.   Down is hurting knees and shins.    The hill fitness after 6 weeks feels like I’m moving up steeper ones with less heavy breathing disturbing the wildlife.  The noise is now reserved for descents.  So I’m lengthening poles for down,  weight back in my heels, using ‘tacking’ that a climber in the Lake District had shown me and I’m gently does it.   

The reward for the up of Salcombe Hill Cliff is stunning views on this glorious day.  Green rolling hills and sparkling ocean.   The descent down to Salcombe Mouth dropped me right onto the pebble beach – I had to resist every urge not to run in.  It was baking hot.    The climb starts from the pebbles and up sharply to 500 feet and the immense Maynards Cliff and then even steeper  Higer Dunscombe Cliff.  

Then it’s at the 11km mark that  knees start rejoicing at the sight of the break stop.  Brancombe Mouth and there right on beach is the most beautiful thatched roof cafe.   Sandwich and cup of tea on a table over looking the water .   Gorgeous.   

Walking out of Branscombe the red, orange cliffs of the triassic era,  250 millions years old, give way to to white chalky cliffs.  The first sign they are aging backwards .   Passing a signpost for  Beer that was leaning over in a bush and looking like it had had 4 pints of it’s destination,  I wasn’t sure if this was coincidence or someone cracking themselves up.    Beer on arrival was an ancient, thatched village nestled in between towering cliffs.   I had a little look around and at its pristine beach shaded by the giant white  cliff face .  

With only a few kilometers to Seaton I held off on my planned icecream until I reached my destination.   I’m glad I did because I had next level gelato  at Cortona in pretty Seaton and it was worth the wait.   A quick nip to the shop for my breakfast supplies and then went off to find my Air B and B for the night.  The lovely Caroline greeted me at the door – my room which was the upstairs of her beautiful Victorian home, was spotless and beautiful.   It was such a perfect and welcoming room for a hot , sweaty woman.   Caroline’s warmth was reflected in her whole house.  My start in the morning is early as I have combined two stages making it a long day.    She immediatley offered me use of her kitchen to do breakast so I could get an early start.   Another special person along my way that makes this walk all that is.  

Night night from Seaton.   Caroline mentioned she has her homemade marmalade for the morning.    Could this day get any better!!! xxx 

The view from the first climb of the day

Dukes – Best hot tea so far , eggs were up there too.

Salcombe Mouth

Walking away from the sea…..damn!

Weston Mouth

The most beautiful of beach cafes Branscombe Mouth

The signs had a few

A day of many steps

Beer

Beer Beach Note :  Cliff color change

I happily turned down here. xx

Cute and Cosy at Caroline’s